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Restoring 49 VAC
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Peterbilt
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 9:29 pm    Post subject: Restoring 49 VAC Reply with quote

Well I decided start redoing my favorite tractor I have. Since now that I have a lot of nothing else better to do.




That the progress I made so far. She may look pretty in the picture but the person I bought it from threw a quick paint job on it about 10 or so years ago. Im going to sand blast it back down to bare metal and start fresh. I do have to split it to replace the gears on the fly wheel. I'll keep updating as I go.
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1031D
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a good start to me! Was wondering what is up with the center lift parts from the old style hydraulics with the eagle hitch?? Do you need a ring gear?
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petra79
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks to be coming apart just fine. Keep the pictures and updates coming.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1031D wrote:
Looks like a good start to me! Was wondering what is up with the center lift parts from the old style hydraulics with the eagle hitch?? Do you need a ring gear?

Theres two seperate hydrolic systems on it. I put the old style on it to use other types of impliments. As for the ring gear, the one thats on it is missing a bunch of teeth (it wasnt me that did it). I am looking for one, Steiner has new ones for 75 bucks.

Also when I change gears, I have to throttel all the way down or it will grind. My old 44 or my 46 dont do it. I was told that it has to do with my gears bot being singroed(sp) or something in that nature. How hard will it to be fixed?
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1940 Ford 9N
1952 Ford 8N
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1031D
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like something else, there are no syncro rings in that tranny. Sounds like maybe your clutch is not releasing all the way. I might have a good ring gear on a flywheel. I also might have a spare clutch too! All 4 of my VAC's do not grind when shifting unless you are moving. While you are going that far, also check the torque tube bearings as they are almost always bad or out of adjustment.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the power is all the way down, I can shift in and out easily. But when I stop to shift and it still in gear, I can quickly shift to the next gear. It just like grind when its in neutral and shift into a gear. It can really irk me sometimes. Ill check the clutch when I get to that part. As for the ring gear, How much would you want for it?
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1940 Ford 9N
1952 Ford 8N
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1939 John Deere B

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1031D
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's any good(memory fuzzy right now) and I can get it off, or sell you the whole thing, I suppose $30 plus shipping. I did some thinking and some tinkering, and I think your problem is the pilot bearing in the end of the crank, might be chewed up and grabbing the input shaft.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took my engine apart a few weeks ago and when I drained the oil I got alot antifreeze that came out with the oil. So I took the head off to see what the cause and my father found two cracks. From the dash forward the are between the first three cylinders D O-O-O O . The dash marks is where the cracks are and they go all the way down to the bottom. Any ideas if it can be fixed or should I make a trip to tractor salvage yard find a other?
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1940 Ford 9N
1952 Ford 8N
1949 Case VAC
1949 Case DC-4
1939 John Deere B

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1939 Farmall H
1944 Case VAC
1946 Case VAC
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1031D
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the crack is just on the top deck I would not worry about it, I have one VAC that was cracked top of the deck through the center main bearing, and it would pump oil into the cooling system. Make sure you get a block number VT328, as the older ones are slightly different.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update: Im still looking for a block. Seems like all the tractor salvage yards around here cashed in when price of scrap was high. Sad I had a few peaple tell me to use a 2 or 3 part sealer on it, but I plan to work(playing in the dirt) the tractor. The cracks go all the way down. By next week Im going to pop the pistons and sleeves out to get a better look. Everything else on the tractor is going good Very Happy .
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1940 Ford 9N
1952 Ford 8N
1949 Case VAC
1949 Case DC-4
1939 John Deere B

Sold Sad
1939 Ford 9N
1939 Farmall H
1944 Case VAC
1946 Case VAC
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1031D
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have farm tractors that I farm with that have the blocks cracked on top, does not mean anything in a gas engine head gasket will seal it. I would pull the sleeves and see if it's cracked on the bottom.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are still looking for a block call Clair Myers Case on Lake Road in Thomasville, PA - 717 259 0453 - Really old guy has tons of 40's & 50's Case parts in the junk yard.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet, Thanks
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1940 Ford 9N
1952 Ford 8N
1949 Case VAC
1949 Case DC-4
1939 John Deere B

Sold Sad
1939 Ford 9N
1939 Farmall H
1944 Case VAC
1946 Case VAC
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is were Im at so far.



Does anyone know were I can get one of these seals? Half of the rubber in it was missing and leak like crazy. I know the picture is not the best. Its the seal for the lever that activates the PTO.

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1940 Ford 9N
1952 Ford 8N
1949 Case VAC
1949 Case DC-4
1939 John Deere B

Sold Sad
1939 Ford 9N
1939 Farmall H
1944 Case VAC
1946 Case VAC
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1031D
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last one I rebuilt had an actual oil seal in it, may have National numbers if needed. Nice progress.
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