3000 Pump Leak

usually it's a worn comp nut.. but eventually the hardline imprints and then will never seal up good without major jiggering up.. or repalcement of parts. while i don't like to replace expensive parts more than anyone else.. nor do I like to convert to non oem due to making a repair later on harder.. I like both of those better than a farmerized fix theat may leave me stranded later on.

I know a few guys that have used combinations of orings and white packing tape ( teflon ) and or jb weld to fix those leaks.. put tape on then nut.. the coat with jb then tighten and let cure.

usually does work actually.. makes disassy a pain though! I've had to go after that kind of fix and chip off jb weld to get the vomp nut out. had to do that on a fuel line someone jb welded in vs chaning out an oring one time .

10 cent oring.. and someone just tightened tha bajeebers out of the packing nut and then slathered about 4 coats of jb on her to stop a diesel drip.

well.. it worked.. till i needed to take a fuelbowl assy off the OTHER side of the line and had no rom to do so onthe hardline..

that one shoulda been a 5m fix and turned into 3 hrs. had no room to work so had to use a razor knife int he space a wrench would go and slowly wittle off jb till i go thte packing nut to turn onthe 5/16 line..

Update on the tubing leak. First remove the high pressure tubing. This in itself in hard to do. The foot rest, parking brake, and then the tubing has to come off. The fix was to use a male jic fitting, already attached to a short piece of steel tubing (about 8"). An adapter was then used that had correct threads to fit the pump (still don't know what thread it is) and female jic on the other end for the new tubing section. Cut off the end of the original steel tube and join to the new tube using a steel tube with id to match the od as a coupler. After several dry fittings, the coupler was brazed on each end to the tubes. This took over 2 hours as the assembly being rigid has to be right on the money to be able to attach to the pump. But, they were able to make it work. No leaks.

If I were doing another, I think that it would be much easier to have a good hydraulic hose shop attach a short hose to the cutoff steel tube with the correct fittings on the other end to fasten to the pump. This gives much more flexibility than the rigid steel line.

Replacing the steel line completely with rubber probably would not work because of the limited space beneath the step at the back.

As this was done at our local Ford dealer, I was able to look at several other tractors there. Looks like a change to a jic fitting was done on the later models.

I hope that this is clear to everyone. I meant to make some pics of the process, but forgot the camera.

Here are some pics of the fix.
Looking at new fitting and one end of brazed coupler from LH side.




Old fitting. Notice the rubber inside for sealing. Not a very good seal for high pressure hydralics.

As I already said, if I had to do another one, I would take the steel tubing off and go to a good hydraulic hose place and have them connect a short 8-10" hose to tube with the correct fitting on the pump end.