the hub will start to rid on the brake parts.
the oil leak means you need seals too. if it was just the worn hub, there is a shade tree fix for it. you cut strap material .. that stell banding from pallates.. and you cut it into strips.. and place a strip on each spline as a shim between the soft cast hub, and the hard axle ( most wear is usually on the hub as it is soft.. though eventually, axles do wear ). anyway, thus shimmed, you torque it and drive on it. the shims settle in as you drive and you need to keep tightening hte hub for about a week.. then it is usualy good to go. however that's if the seals are dry. if wet.. I'd bit the bullet and do axle seals and flip for a new 55$ hub if you can swing it. if not the hub.. at least do the seals and then shim the hub, replacing when you can, as it's external, and easier to get to than the seals..etc..
soundguy
the oil leak means you need seals too. if it was just the worn hub, there is a shade tree fix for it. you cut strap material .. that stell banding from pallates.. and you cut it into strips.. and place a strip on each spline as a shim between the soft cast hub, and the hard axle ( most wear is usually on the hub as it is soft.. though eventually, axles do wear ). anyway, thus shimmed, you torque it and drive on it. the shims settle in as you drive and you need to keep tightening hte hub for about a week.. then it is usualy good to go. however that's if the seals are dry. if wet.. I'd bit the bullet and do axle seals and flip for a new 55$ hub if you can swing it. if not the hub.. at least do the seals and then shim the hub, replacing when you can, as it's external, and easier to get to than the seals..etc..
soundguy