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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello American friends!
After getting my Massey Harris 102 up and running a few years ago i pretty much forgot about this forum sadly, but now I've just bought another American-made tractor last week! And therefore I came to think about this forum again.

The tractor is an Allis Chalmers WC, and it had been sitting in a barn at an old mansion for the last 25-30 years.
The guy that owns the mansion bought it when he was 15, and now he's 72, and during the time he's had it it's pretty much had no use, but he said that last time he drove it was about 25-30 years ago, and that's when it got parked in the barn.

Now, as i said back in my old Massey Harris thread, all old American tractors are very rare here in Sweden, there are some Farmalls and John Deeres but they are rare too.
The only Allis model that really exists here is the model B, and I've seen 2 or 3 C:s as well. There was a WD wide front for sale 2 years ago i think, but it was a barn find and went for like 4000 dollars...

This is the only WC I've ever seen in Sweden, and i think it's really cool because narrow front tractors in general are pretty much non-existent here.

I've come across a few issues with it so far, one being the magneto, it had a bad coil and condenser, and was in a pretty rough shape overall, but it's in for a rebuild by an expert right now. Won't be cheap but I'll have to live with that.
The second issue is that the tractor won't move, at all. When we tried to pull it out of the barn the wheels wouldn't turn... We thought the brakes were locked up, but when we came out on the asphalt outside of the barn the wheels started spinning, but in opposite directions!
The engine and gearbox turn over freely, and everything in front of the secondary clutch mechanism. So my conclusion is that it must be the bearings in the pinion shaft that are stuck somehow. If you put it in first gear and hand crank it over it does start to move, but it's very heavy, so something is wrong.
I don't know what could have happened, since the differential housing is full of oil, and has no water in it, but i guess I'll just have to take it apart and take a look at it.

A question i have, is how do you engage the belt pulley? I see no lever to engage it, only a bolt on the housing? Another question, there are two "levers" you can pull from the drivers station, one goes to the choke at the carb, but the other one isn't connected to anything! What is it supposed to do?
Last question, is there any way to determine the age of a WC other than the serial number? The number on this is pretty much non-existent sadly, i can only make out a few of the numbers, and not the first ones... I was thinking that the first number was a 6, but that's probably wrong, right?

Here are some pictures of it, the little hit-and-miss engine on the trailer i managed to get with the tractor! It's a very rare Swedish copy of a 1 1/2 hp Hercules engine, called Benzona. I think it's a 1925 model.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Tractor Automotive tire

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Tire Wheel Cloud Sky Plant


Thanks for any help in advance!

//Erik from Sweden
 

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Welcome to AGCO Parts Books is a good place to find parts diagrams.
It's been a long time since I've been around a WC and never owned one, but the best I remember there should be a control rod that goes to the choke, one to the starter switch, and one for grounding the magneto.
There should be a lever on the transmission to engage the belt pulley.
The serial number is at the top of the differential housing. There should be a flat spot and it will start with WC.
Some paint scraping may be necessary as it looks to have been painted at least once.
 

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Also Erik, it sounds like only your clutch is frozen. Like the friction disc is rusted solid to the flywheel. The counter-rotation of the wheels is indicative that the drive line is engaged to the engine and the wheel rotation a result of the differential. Is the transmission confirmed to be in neutral? I would guess stuck in gear since you observed the tires rotating while cranking the engine. Hope this helps!
 

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Your WC certainly looks worthy of bringing back to a useful life. Keep us posted with your progress. Thanks for the pics too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys!
All right then the control rod i was thinking about must have been for grounding out the magneto, thanks!

When it comes to the belt pulley, i really cant find any place such a lever would have been mounted, there are no shafts or holes from the transmission where the lever would be able to mount! But I'll have to take a closer look next time... I'm currently home sick so no tractor until I'm better.

I can see where the serial number has been, on that flat spot just as you said Dave, but i can only make out the letters "tractor no"
The number is below "tractor no" but I'm unable to read them although i have scraped the paint off. As you said, it has been repainted. The guy i bought it from repainted it when he got it, so around 1965, and he didn't do it very well, so it's rusted a bit under the paint.
But thanks for telling me that it starts with WC! Then the 6 that i thought was the first number must be the C in WC!

Sadly the clutch isn't the issue with it not rolling. I've gone through and tested all the gears and the clutch while turning the engine over by the hand crank, and it all works great. There is a secondary clutch, between the gearbox and the differential, that's pretty much just a sliding spline for direct engagement. And if you disengage it everything in front of it, such as gearbox, clutch etc works great. So it has to be behind that secondary clutch, and the only thing i can think of that could be the issue there are the pinion bearings.
I'll have to take the pinion of the differential and take a good look at it i guess. But thanks for the suggestion!
 

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I talked with my friend who has the WC about how to engage the belt pulley. I assumed (like an idiot) that that pto lever ran both as on a lot of older tractors. I knew his didn't have one on it, but he said he took it off since he has nothing to use it with, and it obstructs his view while cultivating. He sent an e-mail with his instructions.

Make sure the engine is off and everything in the transmission is stopped. Above the pulley is a setscrew with locking nut. Loosen that. If you pull the pulley out far enough, you'll see a ring of holes that the setscrew engages when you push the pulley into driving position. Those holes are drilled in a staggered pattern, so you can set the gear lash. One is usually marked with a pumchmark, and the the outside of the pulley will have about 1/8 to 1/4 inch movement at that hole. Should also be a slash mark on top of the "C" channel to line up with. Push the pulley assembly in until it engages with the driving gear. Tighten down the setscrew and locknut.
If you have two levers by the seat, the one connected to the torque tube is a sliding disconnect for the drive axle. The other is for the pto.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks a lot Dave!
One could only assume that it would be the same lever as for the PTO. That's what I would have guessed as well, had it not been for the fact that this tractor doesn't have a PTO. Your friend is lucky to have a PTO for his tractor, even though he's not using it. I would love to have either a PTO or that cool mechanical lift that they offered as an extra for the tractor. Feels like that would make the tractor a bit more useful in some way, but oh well, the chances of finding either one in Sweden are probably about 0% ;)

I must say, that is one of the strangest and most complicated ways to engage the belt pulley that I've ever heard of, but it's probably correct. The screw is there, so it's got to be like that. Thank you so much for taking the time to find that information, it's much appreciated! Would've probably had a hard time figuring that out myself.

Btw I've only got one lever by the seat, probably because i don't have a PTO.

Thanks for the Wikipedia link, but I've already read it! Strange how the WC was the best-selling AC tractor, and yet pretty much not a single one made its way over to Scandinavia (as far as i know, the only other one I'm aware of is at a museum in northern Sweden). The only model that really got sold here was the B, and I'm guessing they only were really sold for a couple of years, since most of the ones I've seen for sale have been early 40:s models. Strange how AC as a brand didn't really make it over here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When trying the pencil rubbing method I got the numbers slightly more readable. I think it starts with 75... And that, as far as I can tell should make it a 1939 model?
It turned out that that magneto was beyond repair sadly... It was in a very rough shape internally, and the entire housing has cracks and is just in an awful condition...
So I'm looking for a Fairbanks Morse magneto, sadly they are pretty rare here. Bosch and Lucas, as well as WICO in some cases are quite common, but not Fairbanks.
 

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from what i see on tractor data, it very well could be a '39
 
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