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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Lots of things have been going on since the tear down...many smaller projects have come and gone, the retirement date that was in the near future is now in the recent past. Remember this little MH 30 that sat for a number of years, and was to be a simple job to get back in condition ? It turned into a full blown engine rebuild due to water getting in the cylinders.

Overbore pistons, rings, new valves, keepers, guides, exhaust seats, (intake not available), main and rod bearings, crank turned .010....on and on and on...you get the idea. Already having been taken to .040 over, it had to go to .060 over. This engine can go an unbelievable .120 over at the maximum.

What was to be a simple task turned into an expensive and extensive one for sure. No biggie, ain't going to line my coffin with greenbacks anyway. Eventually, this little fellow may just become the neat little utility tractor to keep and a total face lift may be in store, but for now and the impending new shop, the mechanical end is the major concern. If not, it may have to set in pieces another full year and we can't have that can we.

Long story short, assembly was completed last March with assembly lube slathered on every moving part just in case it had to sit a while. Good thing, fast forward 9 1/2 months and finally time allowed reassembly of the tractor. Remember, not a trailer queen but a good reliable worker for now.

Reading somewhere (I think) some '47 model 30's had the 162 Continental engine painted black, and though this one is probably an '51 or '52 I figured what the heck, a black motor will break up the monotonous red of the tractor. So be it. Black is the color of the day for the engine.

Refrigeration guage in the oil line fitting will let me oversee the oil pressure while test running the motor prior to total assembly of the tractor, in case there are leaks or worse....in case the motor has to come back out.....Perish the thought !!!! Carb is just hung on, not yet totally gone through, just cleaned. Gotta get a carb kit yet. That brass blow-by vent line looks sharp, ain't gonna paint that thing black !!!

Alternator is just hung on to allow the water pump to work during the test run. The alternator will be the first going on the test stand for check out. First the instructions on the test stand have to be read and understood though.... :oops: :oops: If it tests ok and the bearings don't whine it'll go back on, but then I see an old Autolite 6v generator is laying in the corner.....

No coolant in the motor yet and turning over the motor to build oil pressure without spark, is when I found an error in the process...I'd piped the inlet connection to the oil filter to the wrong port in the block. Cranking the engine in the above manner caused oil to squirt out of the CORRECT port right next to the wrong one !!! Now it made perfect sense as to why the steel line had to be tweaked to fit. Another reason I dry fire all these things, knowing that my sometimes memory serves INcorrectly !!! No harm, no foul...yet.
Now after filling the hydraulic sump and the coolant system, time to fire the old gal up. And fire up she did !!! Smoked the typical smoke at first while burning off the oil residue for the oil soaked new piston/ring assemblies...had to open the shed door for some fresh air. However, run time was cut super short by the pool of oil draining out of the frame onto the floor. A three foot puddle and growing. Seems the hydraulic return line decided to develop a hole in the bottom, just off the frame. Steel line, no access...Houdini couldn't get a torch in there, much less make a repair.

OUT it came for tabletop repair.

I'm sure you guys most all know a lot about these types of repairs, but for some of the younger generation that may not, here's how a poor boy from Missouri does it. Dig out the 45% silver and the white paste flux, and a small oxy/acet torch if you have one. File the steel line perfectly shiny anywhere you want the solder to stick. Apply liberally the white paste flux (IMPORTANT) ! Heat with the torch and transfer a bit of 45% to the steel. If this was in an area to be visible, I'd file this down smooth, then buff and paint. It will not give you a problem right there again.
Notice the coil of 45% laying on the vise ?? This stuff is sold by the 'troy ounce' and a 1 troy ounce roll costs about $31.60 at the local HVAC supply house. By comparison, this roll here weighs 10 to 12 troy ounces minimum...

So here's where you either gently file down or in this case, it is on the bottom inside the frame and not visible without a mirror and two elbows in one arm.

So much easier to use for these tiny repairs is this tiny Prestolite set. The big torches are much too cumbersome for so many things, everyone needs at least one of each in their shop. Less than a mile away, Oct 9th last year was an auction where I was lucky enough to pick up this torch AND the huge roll of 45% silver solder for $60....yep, SIXTY BUCKS !!!! I've been in HVAC for 38 years and used 45% many, many times and I've NEVER even seen a roll this big !!!
So that was a very lucky day indeed. Still using the oxygen and the acetylene that was in the bottles too.

Battery tray looked a little worse for the wear, so looking around the junk pile rendered some authentically aged, rusty 16 ga mild steel. I just don't want anything shiny and new to make the little rust-bucket stand out, you know.

Half hour later this semi-authentic and period correct replica is spot welded to the battery tray brackets, painted the glorious gloss black and ready to do its duty for the next generation of batteries.

So the saga continues....one of these days. Gotta go buy a new temp guage and start finishing.
 

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What a well documented story of the process. I felt like I was there. Nice job!
 

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Thanks Wendell for another interesting work project . If I had 2 elbows on one arm I would of came and helped. :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Been wondering when you were going to get back to this one. Looks like you did a great job. Good job on the soldering job. We use the silver solder at work a lot and to get that torch and roll of solder for 60 dollars is unbleavable. I aint never seen a roll that size either. The battery box is one to be proud of and who would have thought you would find a scrap piece of metal with the slit and bolt hole in the right place. ;) You have given me some much needed insperation. I got a 130 I tore into a million pieces about ten years ago. I think you ought to give us a picture of you driving it in a day or two. Good luck with the new shop. Can't wait to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Peacher you are welcome anytime to stop by if ever in the area....but be forewarned people have a tendency to end up a little dirty or worse with each visit, because there's barely enough room to cuss a cat in the shop !! ;) ;)

JJ, you are right about it going to make a handy little fellow. Usually using a 44 for hauling wood to the house and many other chores the 30 will be much more economical sipping gas by comparison to the big gulps of his bigger brothers. All those ponies aren't needed for most activities around here anyway.

MissBetty, you know you are welcome with or without two elbows in each arm !!! I'd maybe even buy your gas for the trip just to see you get your manicure all smudged and greasy. I hear you are already going to go help BigDave work on his tractor too..... :lol: :lol: :lol: ...or at least a certain buddy in NorthWest Indiana is hinting about that anyway....

Gordon, pin your ears back and dive right in on the million piece 130 puzzle. I'm guilty of the same thing on many projects as time seems to rush by with no hesitation. And if you don't have a Metabo and razor blades for cutting metal you should get one for Melinda for her birthday. It will make her realize what a special husband you are !!!! Such a versatile little tool for all kinds of metal cutting...pipe, angle iron, sheet metal, fingers...she'll LOVE it !! :D :D

Thanks again for the comments guys !!!
 

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I like the black engine too. Why don't you know the year? serial number list posted above and where to find the numbers.

:D Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
alleyyooper said:
I like the black engine too. Why don't you know the year? serial number list posted above and where to find the numbers.

:D Al
Hey Al, it's good to hear from you again....I've got four of the old 30's and can't manage to keep their years of manufacture straightened out in my head. I've looked them all up already though. Now three good runners and one poorly running donor, plus an extra engine out of a Baker forklift.

After wiring and going for a test ride, tonight I edited this reply to say it is a '52 for sure. Serial # 18635....it's missing the aluminum oval serial tag though. :(

Found out the 10 SI alternator isn't putting out, so on to the test stand maybe tomorrow. Found out the brakes are rusted badly and working poorly, so that is the first priority...Last set of shoes I had relined cost $123.00 at the local NAPA, of course they sent them to StLouis. Anyone have a reliable internet brake relining company they use? Everything else is ready to rock !!!
 

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Cost so much to get the shoes relined I've threatened to make friend with a old auto parts counter guy and going in on a sunday and try to match up a set from a old pick up.


I've been pretty much staying away since Caseman said every one was sick. I sure don't want to catch it, what ever it was they have.

:D Al
 

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Really interesting post...thanks for taking us through...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Now up and running, it's time to check for other items needing attention and brakes are the first on the list. There's only three or four bolts to remove the fenders which makes working on the brakes a heck of a lot easier.

Countershaft seal is not leaking on this side, but the drum is gouged pretty badly. I'll check and see if the donor "30" has some good drums if not, maybe I can get it chucked up in the lathe and turn it down a few thousandths. Going to have to get resourceful on chucking it up though...maybe an adapter plate again.

Not so lucky on this side, the countershaft has a leaking seal plus the drum is a little on the rough side too. Actually the countershaft has a little play, so maybe removing some of the stacked shims will pull the bearing race up onto the bearing enough to take the play out.....dunno yet.

Not doing a full blown refurbishment at this time, I just want this little guy to be a good running reliable and economical tractor until time allows more attention. By the way, talking to the manager of the local parts store who is also a very good mechanic the other day, he suggested a zinc additive not only for the break in period but for the life of this or any newly rebuilt engine, especially flat tappet. I asked his opinion as a result of Jason1Pa/soundguys discussion in the tractor talk forum.
 

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If your planning on painting this one later now is definately the time to fix all the leaks. Keep the updates coming we enjoy them. I was talking to the boys the other night about the discussion on the zinc additive and plan on putting it in all the tractors as the oil changes come due, haven't had any trouble yet but when a man does its to late figure it will be some cheap insurence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Brake drums are both pretty ate up and the donor tractor yielded none better, so it's time to fix the original ones. We'll start with a chunk of 3" blower shaft.

Bad tool bit caused a very rough turning, so a quick trip over to my much older brother's house netted me the correct one for this lathe. Takes just a few minutes to drop 3" to 2.75" to fit inside the splined opening.

The plan here is to slip the shaft into the drum and attach them together via the drilled and tapped 1/2" holes that are in every Massey hub. Those are used to press a stubborn hub from a rusted shaft. This is the better of the two drums. Neither will be taken completely down to fresh metal.

A little grinding on some quarter inch flat stock and some well placed holes allow everything to be bolted together to keep it from crawling with the heat of the welds.

Welded up and ready to center up in the lathe chuck.

A little better view of the contraption before we go on a trial run....

All chucked up and ready to rock and roll, or maybe.....shake, rattle and roll !!!!! Fingers crossed here.....

....and VOILA !!!! (wallllllaaaaaaa for Ron)..... we have a successfully trimmed down pair of drums. This was the worst of the two, rougher than a cob originally. Wish I had taken a before phote. I didn't think it should be taken totally down as to clear all imperfections it would have taken a lot more. For an old work tractor it will be just fine and when this ones gets gone through totally in a few years I will find much better ones to replace these with. But for now I am calling both of them good to go.
Now, on to the shoes and reassembly.
 

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Good to see you back at work and sharing as you go.
Makes interesting ready even for me.
 

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Wendell,
Excellent work on the fabrication of the fixture for turning the drums. I liked all the pictures and your work as the restoration of the tractor comes back together. This may give me inspiration to actually get back to work on my dads WD. Thanks for posting the pictures and explanation as you progress on the Massey.
Regards,
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No problem Chris, I'll keep taking pictures as long as you guys wanna look......


Have any idea what this little stub of a blower shaft is gonna do ??? It's going to show you how much of a cheap skate I am....The factory choke knob was missing and the previous owner stuck a fender washer between two locking nuts for a home made knob. Worked ok, but my lily white and delicate fingers kinda hurt trying to pull the choke out. Soooooo....

....the blower shaft yielded me this neat little knob to silver solder to the stem of the choke rod. Now let's see....I saved say 6 or 8 bucks not buying a new one but then you gotta think: Twenty five mile round trip with my old truck at 17 mpg would've cost me 4 to five bucks in fuel, I would've stopped for a Big Mac, fries and a large hot tea and that would've been 7 bucks, then there's the possibility MrsMassey would've wanted to go in for lunch too....add 17 bucks instead of the 7 at McDonalds because we'd have eaten at Panera's (BreadCo). Plus a total of three hours would have been taken. So now it's up to $29.00 and not installed yet.

Hmmmmm....making one out of scrap shaft cost nothing, took less than 30 minutes, I have an authentic M-H cable (even if not an authentic knob), but in 40 minutes total it is installed and I'm driving around on a sweet little tractor. And....it didn't hurt my fingers to choke it !!!! :D :D :D

See how it suspiciously resembles the shifting lever knob ???? Could that have been by accident ?? Well, yes it was. It's really only 7/8" diameter, the perspective is off in the pictures and looks larger.

Here we are fat, dumb and sassy going for a brisk morning ride. So cold the new little motor won't even come up to temp even though I've got good oil pressure and the charging system is doing its thing !!!

Soooo, am I a cheapskate or WHAT !!!! :D :D
 

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Good job on the choke knob. Don't know about the cheapskate part though. If you figure in the cost of the lathe, cutting tool,elec and floor space the price could be staggering but then again its hard to put a price on doing it the way you wanted it. :) A good lathe and a mill with the ability to use them both is something I'd like to have, just to many times it would be handy. How did the brakes work as you went on you drive after you got the hubs turned down? Now with all the money you saved you need take the better half out to eat, here's a idea tell her your going to take her out for lunch stop by the store and get a pound of bologna and a loaf of bread hope back in the truck and ask where she would like to stop and eat. :) :) :) A word of warning though best to have a backup plan when you try this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
gordon1121 said:
Now with all the money you saved you need take the better half out to eat, here's a idea tell her your going to take her out for lunch stop by the store and get a pound of bologna and a loaf of bread hope back in the truck and ask where she would like to stop and eat. :) :) :)
Gordon, she's on to ALL my tricks after 37 years and that one only worked once....then when the swelling went down on that knot on my head...well you know the story... :? :? :? :?

At any rate, time to begin breaking in the new motor on this little fellow so:

The first order of business is to line up a couple hours work to heat up the motor a bit. Of course this heated up MrsMassey too because I'd asked her to grab a chainsaw too...

Hooked the new motored little "30" up to the pto splitter....about a 24 gallon single stage pump (or so) and backed it into the hole. Running half throttle for 30 minutes, varying the load with the hydraulics got the motor warm, but only to 130 degrees. Too cold out today at 36 degrees to get it up to temp. Started with a trashbag, but ended up with my long sleeved welding jacket over the grill to get the heat up.

Don't pay attention to this pile, it was split a couple weeks ago with a different MH-30. Didn't want to throw it into the shed because at that time we still needed to get wood in the houses and didn't want to block it in with green wood. It can be stacked now because we have enough in the house to get us through until nice weather. This little pile was a couple of green logs recently brought home...about 22" across.

You'll see the wood being split today has been sitting in the pile in log form for about three years. Note the sap wood is quite pithy but the heartwood is good and solid. Any that gets too pithy is tossed into a "special" pile that is used for shop heating only, not wasting valuable shed space with poor quality wood. The little short ones are just the tail ends of the logs that don't come out to correct length...burn 'em in the shed with the pithy stuff.

First piece on the beam and ready for some exercise. Started up with 30 minutes at half throttle, an hour at full throttle varying the load considerably then 30 more minutes to cool down at half throttle....A few more times in the wood pile then it'll be over to my much older brothers house to put it under a REAL load for the wind up of the breakin.

The motor is sounding pretty good, got it up to 190 and monitored the oil pressure (steady 12 psi) and the temp the whole two hours. I don't know yet if much difference can be told with the .060 over pistons, but I'd sure like to hook up to a set of 2-14's set for about a 7" depth and head to a bottom field.

Please pay no attention to the wiring and the battery cables all over the place...I know they are not routed correctly nor the right colors, but this little guy is destined to only be a (hopefully) good old workhorse for a few years yet. Sooner or later, maybe a makeover is in store and at that time at least all mechanicals will have been duly addressed. That'll be the time to "fancy-up" with some correctness....I will even make a correct battery hold down then !!!

Barely got to 190, but once it did, it was kept there the whole time at full throttle. No knocks, rattles or parts flying off the engine for the duration of this time at the "poor boys gym" probably means it'll be ok...By the way, I'm running Rotella 10w40 with the pint of zinc additive in the crankcase. Should be good for another 60 years with the real hard life behind it. Time to touch up the chainsaws and head back to the pile of logs....hopefully MrsMassey is done sharpening the saws....
 
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