Looking forward to seeing it. With the amount of wood you cut, I'm sure it'll make the job a little more intersting.
ferguson sherman cordwood saw
Picked up a cordwood saw yesterday. This one is in petty good shape. It came with the belt pulley, extention, adapter(1 1/8" to 1 3/8"), saw blade, belt, top link bracket that mounts on the pulley (most are MIA) and he even thru in a cover, even though it was barn kept. He had it mounted on an international so I'm sure I will have to make some ajustments. Mostly used for bucking fence posts around their farm. Since the storm I got plenty of down firewood to cut. I've be wanting a buzz saw since I used my friends dearborn saw but most of the ones I have seen have been sitting outside for the last 30 year,missing pieces and the owner's think they have gold. I'll post some photos of it maybe today. Snow's on the way so I might be plowing.
Kirk
Kirk
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Glad you found it. Thats something I,ve always wanted to find but there never were many to start around here and the ones you find are in pretty rough shape or the guy who owns it thinks they only made three and are way to high.
Kirk,
Solid looking buzz rig! Nice find on this 3 point belt drive unit.
As mentioned I like the fact that they are easier on the back.
Regards,
Chris
Solid looking buzz rig! Nice find on this 3 point belt drive unit.
As mentioned I like the fact that they are easier on the back.
Regards,
Chris
That set up is a lot more substantial than the lighter made Dearborn saws. Your bearings are nice and heavy duty Kirk. It looks like the right angle drive has a cast extension to allow for the length of the 1 1/8 x 1 3/8 adaptor, or are my eyes deceiving me? My M-H-F right angle drive fits the back of the Fords but you have to use the thin 1 1/8 x 1 3/8 bushing, which cracks the first time you use the saw. I shot grease in to hold the broken pieces in place and it works fine.
Good deal on the rig...you will love the tilt top. Does that bolt with the T-bushing near the pivot have springs on it or are they missing ? If missing a couple valve springs will work to push the table back at you from the bottom of travel, but too many or too stiff of springs and it'll make you grunt to compress them to saw.
Good deal on the rig...you will love the tilt top. Does that bolt with the T-bushing near the pivot have springs on it or are they missing ? If missing a couple valve springs will work to push the table back at you from the bottom of travel, but too many or too stiff of springs and it'll make you grunt to compress them to saw.
Bearing are in good shape, no slope or play, nice and smooth. Yes it has the adaptor for the 1 3/8". We used the thin one on the 8n beater we use at the deer camp with a bushhog and ORC. It broke the first time out. It was a quick fix, just changed out the ORC to the proper size. Would buy the thin one again.missouri massey man said:That set up is a lot more substantial than the lighter made Dearborn saws. Your bearings are nice and heavy duty Kirk. It looks like the right angle drive has a cast extension to allow for the length of the 1 1/8 x 1 3/8 adaptor, or are my eyes deceiving me? My M-H-F right angle drive fits the back of the Fords but you have to use the thin 1 1/8 x 1 3/8 bushing, which cracks the first time you use the saw. I shot grease in to hold the broken pieces in place and it works fine.
Good deal on the rig...you will love the tilt top. Does that bolt with the T-bushing near the pivot have springs on it or are they missing ? If missing a couple valve springs will work to push the table back at you from the bottom of travel, but too many or too stiff of springs and it'll make you grunt to compress them to saw.
There is a spring on the pivot but only on the one side. After checking the manual they also have it on the one side. I may change out the spring anyway so I may add one to the other side as well.
Kirk
I know these saws can be dangerous. I have cut with these saws before. Always nice to work with a couple of people. A chucker really helps so the wood doesn't falling to the ground and pilling up and end up where it shouldn't.ralbuck said:I have used similar -- but front mount on a semi-permanent JD B --
BE CAREFUL
Even with shielding it is a dangerous outfit!
Clean the blade up and then use lube to help avoid binding etc.
Great dig! Happt SAWDUST!
A REAL BACK SVER though.
Hope it works out for you.
When I went to buy it my wife took the ride with me. It was kind of like Ralphy in the Christmas story with the red ryder BB gun "You'll shoot your eye out". Well my wife took one look the saw and said "you'll cut your arm off." She said that's why it's painted red so you don't see the blood splatter. Like Ralphy ,to draw her attention away from the saw I said Hey look at those old crocks in the corner. My wife collects crock so buying the saw was cheap compared to what I spent in crocks. Next time going to leave her home.
Kirk
I haven't decided which trator I'm going to put it on yet. But what's nice about this unit is when you raise the 3pt up the hole thing goes up and slacks the belt then when you set it back down it tightens the belt again so you don't have to fool with it.petra79 said:Wouldn't mind finding one myself. Looks good Sir. Have to see it once you get her all set up with a tractor.
Good luck and be safe.
we've got one similer to that one and when the blades sharp she's a cutin dream! one thing i have found out over the years is dont make the belt to tight. if something gets jamed it wont slip and wood splinters can got flyin in any direction, even at you or helpers! when we cut wood(about 3 semi loads a year) i look at my helpers when they walk up to make shure there shoes are tied, no loose cloths or gloves with holes. keep the ground around it free of sticks and wood blocks, anything you could trip over. when i cut alone ill let the blocks biuld up on the ground then shut it down to pick'm up
Nice article on the saw and comments on the operation of cord wood saws! I like the original documentation! Adds a lot to the equipment.
Wow three semi loads is a lot of wood!
We had a stationary buzz saw belted to the CASE VA for cutting stove wood for the big wood furnace. I remember the belt coming off every time we bound the saw a little or did not have the tractor lined up with the saw, or the saw may have moved a little. Sometimes took a half hour getting the belt so it would not come off. Learned some different words during that portion of the set up from Grandpa!
Regards,
Chris
Wow three semi loads is a lot of wood!
We had a stationary buzz saw belted to the CASE VA for cutting stove wood for the big wood furnace. I remember the belt coming off every time we bound the saw a little or did not have the tractor lined up with the saw, or the saw may have moved a little. Sometimes took a half hour getting the belt so it would not come off. Learned some different words during that portion of the set up from Grandpa!
Regards,
Chris
Boy that brought back memories. When I was a youngen dad had borrowed that exact same set up from the neighbor and we mounted it on the 50 Harry we had. Rememberes it worked great. But then again we had been cutting with an old 2 man cross before.. Thanks for the post!!
From what I have heard about buzz saws you are more likely to die from a concussion from an impact. That is probably why the thing is painted red though.
Kirk,
Good looking set up on that clean, narrow front end, Ford! Looks like your close to cutting some wood. Happy buzzing!
Regards,
Chris
Good looking set up on that clean, narrow front end, Ford! Looks like your close to cutting some wood. Happy buzzing!
Regards,
Chris
Kirk, I'm having trouble seeing how the top link bracket hooks up and what it hooks up to. Can I ask for another shot showing that detail a little more clearly? That will help me decide what to do with one of the Dearborns I've still got in original condition. Thank you, sir. That thing looks like it belongs on the back of yours !!!
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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