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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need a little help trying to get my B started. This is that tractor that I have been working on/off for the last 6 months.

Tonight I got everything all set up and ready to go. I turned it over and didn't get anything for a while, I did start to smell gas. I also might have kept fouling the plugs too from the piston oil.

After making some adjustments I got it to pop but weak. I had the wires on the cap backwards so I think. Could it be possible that the mag is 180 degrees off (different mag I put together from scratch)? What are the symptoms of a mag 180 degrees off?


I put new plugs in, new wire set (7mm solid copper core) new boots and connectors. All new wiring on the tractor, alternator, new oil and filter, carb completely gone through with a kit and drilled the ports, mag was torn all the way down and evaluated with some new parts (had good spark on bench test, white spark on the screwdriver)

I am in the process of uploading the whole starting sequence tonight when I first tried.
 

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-Willy-
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Biggest mistake of all the John Deere tractors is trying to start them with out much throttle. Open that bad boy up to start it. Idle it down after.

-Take the plugs out and lay them beside each cylinder (still connected to mag). Hold your finger across the hole and wind the engine over. When did the spark happen?
-Are they new plugs? Or are you using some you had lying around?
-You do realize new wires are no longer copper right?
-I am sure this is a pointless question, how much compression do you have?
-Is the fuel new? Todays fuel, anything older than a month will not have the same punch as the stuff that has recently been pumped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It has a wico X magneto which has points inside. I matched it exactly to the mag that came off the tractor with the addition of newer parts and such.

it has compression, enough that it is hard on the hands to turn over the flywheel with the ring gear on it.

Gasoline was purchased yesterday and is good gas

modern fuel filter inline

yes after reading that, I don't know why I said copper core, they are solid core wire and thick, best stuff I could find locally.

should I be able to move the governor rod with my bare hand without it running? feels kind of stiff

I noticed I got good oil pressure while turning it over
 

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-Willy-
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If you just swapped mags, there is still no guarantee that it is timed. This was the point of the thumb over the hole. It would tell you if it is firing on compression or even when it is trying to fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got it started and running. I turned the magneto counterclockwise from the casting marks and it started much easier. Probably needs some more adjustment in the timing.

Is there a way to set up the governor linkage rod to the carburetor and throttle lever? It does not like low RPM's yet but runs well on high RPM's

Carb adjustments at the needles isn't doing much yet to achieve low RPM or a safe idle speed.

video coming soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Maybe this will describe what is going on? After the video I adjusted the gov rod to carb to book specs and did not do anything for low RPM.

the only way I have been able to achieve low RPM out of this engine is to pull back on the choke to 1/2-3/4 choke

I also pulled the mag off and moved the impulse catch a few degrees to see if it made a difference and I noticed next to nothing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK5goq0gUAI
 

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-Willy-
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If you have to choke it, you have a vacuum leak. Best way to discover where the leak is. When the engine is running, use some aerosol penetrant (you want something flammable). Spray the penetrant around where the carb connects to the manifold, and around where the manifold connects to the engine. When you find the leak the engine will seem to gain rpm. That will be the gasket you need to replace.

Here again, I dont know the B series. Yet from what I understand, they never did run correctly at low rpm, it always suffered on one cylinder.
 

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You did clear the air cleaner of mud dabbers didn't you? It may not be the root of the problem, but it will cause them to run rough. If you are having to choke it, it seems to me that there is a port in the carb still not cleaned since you have to choke it to run smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I cleaned the oil bath out with gasoline and filled it to the line with sae 30.

I changed the fuel filter out and swapped carbs for a dltx 10 that I recently rebuilt. it popped off quicker but still no hope for low RPM. It will not let me run the tractor at open choke disc, needs to be half or 3/4 choke to run at all.

I tried to time the tractor according to I/T and a few sources on the web and the results did not change anything
 

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We run Autolite 386 or 3116 plugs on the magneto Johnny's. Also, if you have semi-metallic wires you can still buy copper core wires. I have a spool of it in my shop. If you rebuilt the DLTX-10 did you remove all the plugs for the cross drilled ports? I have seen a spider web screw with a carburetor. I would chase down the idle circuit and go from there. Now, by drilled out are you using the special step drills or are you using regular drill bits? The passages are stepped and if you make them all one size it will run like you describe. Throw those champions out where they belong!
 

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-Willy-
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Mine would run on them, just that they didnt run well. Hard starting even when it was warm. Sputtered alot! Idled terribly.

Put the NGK's in there when it was 35 degrees out and the tractor fired up like it was 80 degrees out.

Run them if you like, but at $2 per cylinder, I think you will greatly appreciate the change ($2 each at Napa Auto Parts store)
 
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