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Hello everyone.

I am pretty new here. But thought I'd keep you and any future members updated on the progress of my Ford 340 tractor. You may or may not remember from my introduction post that I mentioned I had acquired one from the college I work for. It had caught fire while being used due to a fuel leak, and the diesel program is going to go through it to get it in good working condition before I take her home.

So to get started..... They've taken the cab off and they're running new 10 gauge automotive wire because all of the wiring is just a mess. A different instructor bent my ear to tell me that they're using butt connectors to rewire it. He advised against it and suggested soldering. I have met a young engineering student and the department head described her as great at soldering, and she said that she could solder these wires together. So I'm on everyone's opinions on soldering versus butt connectors.

The tractor was last driven about 2 years ago and they don't think that the motor is seized up. They were going to turn it over by hand today but the disassembly was going to be too much work.

Including a couple of pictures for you all to look at. Any information or opinions are welcome!

Hope this thing runs! The donuts and sausage biscuits are getting expensive!
 

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-Willy-
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Well hmmm. Soldering is great for stationary items. Yet as a professor at a college told me. There is a reason why vehicles have multiwire and crimped connections rather than solid wire and soldering. Vibration from a motor. Soldering is great for battery terminals. Yet the rest is fine with crimped. Normal stuff on the tractor should be fine at 16 gauge wire. IE up to four lights, (separate wire to feed items) radio, fan? 10 gauge is over kill. The alternator should be fine on 12 gauge.

Yes the wiring is a mess! I would tear it all out and start fresh, but that is just me.
12 gauge from alt to battery.
maybe 2 OT cables for the battery unless Ford has a spec otherwise.
12 gauge from battery to fuse panel.
from fuse panel out to various other stuff 16 ga.
that is the basics of wiring. Google your tractor and you should be able to find a wiring diagram. Heck you could probably still get a complete wiring loom if you wanted from Ford / New Holland.
http://agriculture1.newholland.com/nar/en-us/about-us/buying-services/aftersales/parts/overview
Look up the part number you need with the above link and start calling around.


I am guessing you have a 3000 with a 340 loader on the front. The guess is based on the looks of the grill. Yet that grill was also used by the 4000 series as well.
 

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-Willy-
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I should mention that I am not certain of the model. As it has the looks of what my 4630 had inside the engine compartment with the swing out battery tray and the exhaust location. Perhaps some one like Grizz could weigh in on this tractors identity?

More pictures would help. IE what you see when sitting on the seat. Raise the lift arms so we can see just the tractor. Better image of head on looking at the front of the tractor. A number plate in the firewall area? The back of the tractor. side view of the tractor both sides near the seat area.
 

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My guess is, it's a 3600 series Ford. Not sure what number they gave the industrial model. I have a 3400 which is the industrial of the 3000.
What gives it away is the top of the air filter hole in the radiator shroud that can be seen just above the 340 on the loader arm.
Indigenous to that location on 3600, 5600 models and larger in that body style. The 2600 and 4600 had the filters elsewhere. and it's too small to be a 5600 or larger.
 
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Actually, it could be a 2600 I have one that I maintain for a friend, and it's air cleaner is mounted in the grill housing.
 

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If you can't find the aluminum tag, look on the clutch housing, to the rear of the starter, there is a flat flange with two bolt holes. Look on the top of that flange, there may be a set of numbers/letters stamped, usually filled with paint. They might also be in the same location on the left side.
 

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the 340 sticker is probably the loader model as you have already figured out, there looks to be a model tag on the loader frame on it's left arm near the air cleaner inlet. the axle planetaries indicate 4000 series
 

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I have a ford tractor almost identical to the one in these post, It also has a 340 loader on it. I would like to know what model my tractor is. The tag under the hood above the battery has Tractor # C615888 Model # CU314k , and Unit # 9F28B on it, that is the same numbers that are on the Bell housing on the transmission. Can I get help finding help on what model and year model my Ford Tractor is? Can the clutch be adjusted? How do you get the hydraulic arms to raise faster.
 

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340 is the model of the tractor, it's an industrial model based on a combination of the 3600 and 4600. It has the larger planetary drive rear axle of a 4600 but has the smaller 175 engine used in the 3600.

The tag on the hood back near the fuel tank has all of the numbers needed to id the model and year built.

They show a complete new wiring harness for that tractor on eBay for around $245
 

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I have a ford tractor almost identical to the one in these post, It also has a 340 loader on it. I would like to know what model my tractor is. The tag under the hood above the battery has Tractor # C615888 Model # CU314k , and Unit # 9F28B on it, that is the same numbers that are on the Bell housing on the transmission. Can I get help finding help on what model and year model my Ford Tractor is? Can the clutch be adjusted? How do you get the hydraulic arms to raise faster.
CU314K is the model ID
CU3 = 340 industrial
1 = diesel engine
4 = Ind 540 pto
K = 6x4 manual reversing transmission

9F28B = build date
9= for this tractor 79
F = month built June
28 = day built
b = shift built
tractor was built June 28, 1979 on day shift

C615888 is the serial number and is correct for a tractor built in 1979

Yes the clutch can be adjusted by removing the pin from the clevis on the clutch rod where it connects to the clutch arm and shaft that goes into the bell housing. Lengthen or shorten the rod for the correct free play in the pedal.

There should be a adjustable flow control knob (black knob) on the right side of the axle housing under the seat. I believe turning it out makes the lift faster and turning it in slows the lift, but I could be backwards, I turned mine to full speed and haven't touched the control in years.
If adjusting doesn't help you may want to change the suction filter under the left foot board, beyond that it's ether replacing the pump or removing the lift top for repairs and adjustments.
 

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I am wondering if you ever got it straight what the tractor is. It is a 340. The 340 is not the name of the loader. Ford put these industrial packages together. When they had a cab on them Sims made the cab. They were a great little tractor! I have spent many hours in one!
 
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