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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone I've finally started something i always wanted to do and thats restore an old ford tractor. I needed a project to get over a breakup with the ex girlfriend so I bought a 640 lol. Bought it from a tractor dealer everything works on it and it fires right up usually dont even have to choke it. But yesterday i was driving it around the yard and once it got warm it doesn't run quite as well as it does cool, then out of no where it just stalled on me and wouldn't restart at first but then it randomly did. I parked it and it wouldn't start back up and cranked EXTREMELY slow like i had a dying battery. I figured i probably drained the battery cranking it when it stalled on me but once it cooled off starts and runs like a champ. Today i drove it for about 30 mintues and it didn't stall any but it did start missing when climbing some hills and didn't wanna start again once i parked it hot, slow crank sounds like battery is dead, but after resting awhile right back to normal. Any thoughts??? Of course i'll try a good tune up when i get time but i don't think that would make a difference with the hot start issues. This is my first experience with a tractor motor but I can get it to idle all the way down to 300rpm i have never in my life seen a motor idle that low. In my experience with cars and boat motors (inboards) i;ve always known a motor must have the carb adjusted to near perfection and timing has to be spot on to get a motor to idle perfectly much less idle at that low rpm. it blows my mind i have never seen such a thing. but i've never dealt with a tractor before maybe this is normal?
 

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I'm restoring my 641 and one of the things I'm going to do is reroute the fuel line. The original design has the fuel line run straight down past the muffler and the exhaust manifold. I have heard of vapor lock problems with this design. The gas today is not leaded and has more alcohol than ever. It's a bigger problem when it's hot outside. Not sure if this is your problem but it's something to think about. I'm attaching a photo of a Ford that has the fuel line rerouted. Good luck and let us know what you find.
IMG_5752.jpg
 

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Hello and Welcome. Your account got caught up in cyberspace for a bit, but I got it straightened out.
You picked a good tractor for a restoration. The little Fords are straightforward and easy to work on.

Running rough and stalling after warming up then not starting until it cools are symptoms of a bad coil and /or condenser.
Stalling when going up hill is usually a fuel flow problem. So could the stalling once running for a bit.
I would check the fuel flow from the tank to the carb first. Then the electrical components.
Also watch your fuel level. The intake is about an inch up into the tank.
Another thing that will cause a tractor to stall after running for a bit is the gas cap vent not working properly.
If it's still on the original 6 volt system could be your cranking slow when hot. We had an 8N that would do the same.
Let us know what you find.
 

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Yes please let us know what you find. Many years ago a Super A I have shared the same problems as your Ford. I replaced the condenser and coil thinking that would fix it. No help. Continued to stutter and stall when the engine got hot. The culprit was a clogged inline fuel strainer inside the fitting where the fuel line connected to the carb. Many hours of cultivating tobacco that day were lost because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks guys and thanks for allowing me to be part of the group. I rode it again today and didn't have any stalling i really think it might have been low fuel, just put a little bit in it since tank is coming off soon anyway, did seem to run a little rough once hot. but once i turn it off hot it won't start again until its cool, will barely crank like i have a dying/dead battery. let her cool down and the starter swings over like a champ. whoever had has changed it to 12 volt
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my fuel line is just a rubber hose running accross the front of the block with a fuel filter on it. there is no sedimentt bowl either
 

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Discussion Starter #9
anyone around west virginia interested in buying it? i have no clue what that slow crank hot issue is and not really interested in trying to figure it out. i just wanted to sandblast and paint. after that issue i've completely lost interest in it
 

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Im sure you will find a buyer fairly quickly. Those little fords are very popular.
 

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Post it on the For Sale page here.
 

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I had the same issue with my 861. Replaced plugs, wires, condenser and coil. No improvement. Checked fuel line no blockage. Finally took carb in for rebuild. Older fellow took one look and asked if I was using non-ethanol gas. I was not. He said okay I’ll clean and rebuild but you’ll be back in a few years again if you don’t run non-ethanol. Got it home ran all the old gas out still didn’t run great. Filled tank with non-ethanol, sprayed carb cleaner in, tweaked carb a bit and it started running great. Used it all summer fir hating and that tractor runs great. I hate the price, but we’ll worth not having a poor running tractor.
 

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Hey everyone I've finally started something i always wanted to do and thats restore an old ford tractor. I needed a project to get over a breakup with the ex girlfriend so I bought a 640 lol. Bought it from a tractor dealer everything works on it and it fires right up usually dont even have to choke it. But yesterday i was driving it around the yard and once it got warm it doesn't run quite as well as it does cool, then out of no where it just stalled on me and wouldn't restart at first but then it randomly did. I parked it and it wouldn't start back up and cranked EXTREMELY slow like i had a dying battery. I figured i probably drained the battery cranking it when it stalled on me but once it cooled off starts and runs like a champ. Today i drove it for about 30 mintues and it didn't stall any but it did start missing when climbing some hills and didn't wanna start again once i parked it hot, slow crank sounds like battery is dead, but after resting awhile right back to normal. Any thoughts??? Of course i'll try a good tune up when i get time but i don't think that would make a difference with the hot start issues. This is my first experience with a tractor motor but I can get it to idle all the way down to 300rpm i have never in my life seen a motor idle that low. In my experience with cars and boat motors (inboards) i;ve always known a motor must have the carb adjusted to near perfection and timing has to be spot on to get a motor to idle perfectly much less idle at that low rpm. it blows my mind i have never seen such a thing. but i've never dealt with a tractor before maybe this is normal?
A couple of years ago I had trouble with a Ford 600 that had some of the symptoms you mentioned .I posted the trouble on this site. 1: I found the needle and seat in carburetor was two small, causing stalling under load. Installing correct seat corrected stalling under load problem. 2: Before this sometimes it just wouldn't start. I found that the hot wire to coil was loose. Tightening the wire fixed that problem. Turning over hard can also be caused by worn valves. I've had two 50 model Chevy 6 cylinder cars and a Farmall A that had worn valves that did the same thing. When hot they turned over hard. Doing a valve job corrected the problem. Trouble is if the rings are worn then the engine will start burning oil after the valve job. More vacuum I guess. Enjoy the project.

Word of wisdom: Learning anything worthwhile always cost something!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
well thanks guys i really appreciate the replies. i never thought anything internal could make a issue with it cranking slow when hot. i defiantly thank you for yall's thoughts. there has been no more stalling issues i think that was low gas, it actually runs fine when its hot now too. just that slow crank when hot issue still. i'm gonna play with it some this weekend and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter #15
went out today and tried to start it for the first time in a week and it had a dead battery so maybe last time it was cranking slow after i turned it off i simply just had a weak battery. got it charging gonna try again tomorrow
 

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It very well could be a bad battery. I would also check to make sure the charging
system is working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
battery tested good at parts store, when i turn the key i get nothing, sometimes i hear a few clicks, amp meter used to drop when i turned the key and that doesn't happen now. i gotta bad connection or ground or solenid or ignition switch or something. it acts like there isin't even a battery in it. i started that thing probably 50 times the first week i had it without the slightest problem. ran like a freaking top and now its completely dead
 

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Discussion Starter #18
heys guys tonight i put a test light on the stud on the starter when i turn the key i'm not getting any juice down there. i touched the test light to solenoid and its staying hot when the key is off and light goes out when i turn the key. so basically i have the ignition post on the solenoid hot 24/7 until i try to start it then i have nothing. sound like a ignition switch?
 

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Make a jumper wire out of some #14 or bigger wire, (or if you have room use jumper cables) and just touch the posts from the solenoid to the starter for a second or two.
Does it try to crank? If it does then put your test light across the coil on your solenoid and turn the switch and see if you get power to it.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
changed the ignition switch and it didn't change anything. so went back to autozone and got a solenoid and a both new positive cables cause mine were shot and been painted over a few times and the rubber coating would fall off in your hand. honestly i think it was the old 6 volt cable. anyway after that she starts seems to be running real well
 
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