[Rocky577]

I bought a distributor for my B i wanted to change it all over to a 12 volt system while i was doing. I understand the spark plug wiring and that is simple but as far as wiring to a car alternator and to distributor and lights and kill switch. I looked at the diagram that IH has but i got lost first bend the wires made. Is there a simple way to run some wires then wrap them all together and get it done without spending an arm and leg for a wiring harness. Anybody got a good diagram or which style alternator i need to get since i haven't gotten one yet. Thanks for you help i am geting down to the wire now. literally!

 

[John M]

Here ya go!

http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/...w&current=05-12vAlternatorConv-rev4_22_08.gif

 

[Rocky577]

thanks that dumbed it down just right for me i think even i can do that . I bought a coil with a ballast in it already so i can skip that step correct? everything else is very self explanitory and thanks for the Help John. once again.

 

[John M]

thanks that dumbed it down just right for me i think even i can do that . I bought a coil with a ballast in it already so i can skip that step correct? everything else is very self explanitory and thanks for the Help John. once again.

(Before it gets crazy, as it once did, theres no ballst/resistor inside the coil, but I know what you mean.) Yes, skip that step. I think the only wiring harness I ever bought was one for my Dads tractor, simply because I wanted the correct colors and all. The rest, I wire/rewire myself.

 

[Rocky577]

Do you usually put a warning light in the line ? If so what do you recommend to use? Is it just to indicate you left the tractor to run if it should die ?

 

[John M]

Also lets you know when the alt isnt charging, when it is running, if it goes bad. Another easy option is a one wire alt., but they are notorious for killing batteries. I have one of these, but I have the wire from the alt. to an "on when running" oil pressure switch, so it doesnt kill the battery.

 

[Rocky577]

The starter is still the saddle switch type, do I need to still run the wire from the alternator through the starter? Sorry for the questions just didnt mentiOn I was still using the saddle switch type starter.

 

[DC Snider]

Yes the alternator "BAT" lead still goes from the alternator, to the ammeter, then to the starter post. Your large Battery cable connects there as well. The starter post actually becomes the "junction point" and is where your battery is actually charged from. Hopefully that makes sense...

 

[John M]

to add to what Dusti said, youll also run your wire for the switch and lights off of the ampmeter as well. Theres other ways you could do it, but thats the easiest way, and it helps make it look neater!

 

[BigDaveinKY]

Also lets you know when the alt isnt charging, when it is running, if it goes bad. Another easy option is a one wire alt., but they are notorious for killing batteries. I have one of these, but I have the wire from the alt. to an "on when running" oil pressure switch, so it doesnt kill the battery.

I've never had any problem with a one wire alt.
My batteries seem to last seven or eight years, normal life.
Hooked from battery through the ammeter to the alt.
I changed a battery last year that was marked 2001. It lasted good.
Hooked to a one wire alt. for it's whole life.
But then, I've never put one on a old Farmall.

 

[Rocky577]

Thank y'all for the info, gonna pic up a small in dash light at the auto parts store and head to the junk yard for an alternator.

 

[John M]

Also lets you know when the alt isnt charging, when it is running, if it goes bad. Another easy option is a one wire alt., but they are notorious for killing batteries. I have one of these, but I have the wire from the alt. to an "on when running" oil pressure switch, so it doesnt kill the battery.

I've never had any problem with a one wire alt.
My batteries seem to last seven or eight years, normal life.
Hooked from battery through the ammeter to the alt.
I changed a battery last year that was marked 2001. It lasted good.
Hooked to a one wire alt. for it's whole life.
But then, I've never put one on a old Farmall.

If you use it regularly, its fine, but let it sit for say a month or so, the battery is dead, at least every one wire alternator Ive ever had has done that..... Thats why I wire a normally open oil pressure switch in line to the gauge.

 

[John M]

Thank y'all for the info, gonna pic up a small in dash light at the auto parts store and head to the junk yard for an alternator.

Just bought one from Advance for 35 bucks!! (Rebuilt with a 1 year warranty) The light I used was from Napa, I think like 3 bucks. I was lucky, there was hole already drilled out for it, for something else, so I didnt have to make a new hole, or else Id have gone to Radio Shack and got the diode.

 

[BigDaveinKY]

[quote="John M":30zyprhg]Also lets you know when the alt isnt charging, when it is running, if it goes bad. Another easy option is a one wire alt., but they are notorious for killing batteries. I have one of these, but I have the wire from the alt. to an "on when running" oil pressure switch, so it doesnt kill the battery.

I've never had any problem with a one wire alt.
My batteries seem to last seven or eight years, normal life.
Hooked from battery through the ammeter to the alt.
I changed a battery last year that was marked 2001. It lasted good.
Hooked to a one wire alt. for it's whole life.
But then, I've never put one on a old Farmall.

If you use it regularly, its fine, but let it sit for say a month or so, the battery is dead, at least every one wire alternator Ive ever had has done that..... Thats why I wire a normally open oil pressure switch in line to the gauge.[/quote:30zyprhg]
That's a good idea if you have that problem. I never have. It's been on the tractor fifteen years.
It's sat for as much as five months when I had my accident, and three months after another surgery.
Usually two or three months over the winter between starts. Never failed to start. If it had,
I would have found out why. One thing I can't tolerate is anything with an engine that won't start when I need it.

 

[LikesRedTractors]

to add to what Dusti said, youll also run your wire for the switch and lights off of the ampmeter as well. Theres other ways you could do it, but thats the easiest way, and it helps make it look neater!

I'm gonna have to look into this, who ever converted my C to 12v has wires running every where, with no provisions for lights.

 

[hammerdownharvesters]

just to add my two cents worth on the alt. issues - I have found that alt designed and built for cars and light trucks have lower duty cycles and lighter less durable components than alt built for commercial, industrial or medium truck use. they may physically appear similiar on the outside, but the internals are different and will withstand vibration much better. If a true single wire alt drains a battery the diode trio is faulty

 

[LikesRedTractors]

just to add my two cents worth on the alt. issues - I have found that alt designed and built for cars and light trucks have lower duty cycles and lighter less durable components than alt built for commercial, industrial or medium truck use. they may physically appear similiar on the outside, but the internals are different and will withstand vibration much better. If a true single wire alt drains a battery the diode trio is faulty

So something from a 1 ton or bigger truck?? I wonder if some of the experienced restorers and modifiers could come up with a list of heavy duty alternators with single wire hook ups that are suitable for tractor use. :ugeek:

 

[Rocky577]

one more question, Which size amperage should the alternator be?

 

[John M]

I think the ones I get are 55 amp....More than sufficient for an old Farmall!

 

[soundguy]

mine has a 63a on it and I'm sure not much mor ethan 10-12 ever gets used.. even after startup.. because sh starts so easy.. etc..