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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need ideas on removing the splined hub of the rear axle! I was able to knock the ring back off of them, but i have tryed everything on the hubs, but they will not budge. I have soaked them with blaster, hammered, i currently have a puller on them tightened with as much force as i can apply. I am guessing these things haven't been moved in decades. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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-Willy-
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Arent the hubs a 2 piece assembly? There are 3 bolts that you loosen, drive the outside hub towards the tractor frame and then the center will just fall off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes they are 2 piece! Bolts are all out, and the rings are driven off, they are still stuck on the shaft!
I am thinking i'm gotta have to break out the torches, and heat em up. Or worse case use a sledgehammer and break them then try to find replacements!
 

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Its been a long time since I moved the hubs but I was thinking that there was 2 extra holes, and you take 2 of the bolts you took out and you thread them in the extra holes and that drives the wedge loose. Hope I'm remembering right. Hope somebody else can confirm my old memory.....mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok here are some pictures of what i'm dealing with! As you can see i already have the collar/wedge part driven off it, just need to get the hub pulled!!!!



I have all the force i can put on this puller using a large ratchet and cheater pipe!
 

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Is it possible to back it on the splines. If so I would try to polish the splines and get them with lube. That might get it to slide off.

If not, might break out the torch with a rose bud. To heat it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Southern said:
Is it possible to back it on the splines. If so I would try to polish the splines and get them with lube. That might get it to slide off.

If not, might break out the torch with a rose bud. To heat it up.
I'm leanin more towards the firehammer(torch) all the time. They are just rust welded to the splines i know. I figured i would post this, thinkin maybe someone else has had the same problem, and come up with a sure fire solution!
 

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I have an idea I saw in Green magazine, but this forum won't let me send a PDF file. Send me your e-mail adrress and I'll send you a scanned copy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
JohnGree said:
I have an idea I saw in Green magazine, but this forum won't let me send a PDF file. Send me your e-mail adrress and I'll send you a scanned copy.
email address sent, thanks in advance
 

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Try using your favorite soaker...PB Blaster, Kroil, home brew, whatever. drive a dull chisel into the crack in the hub at 90 degrees to the axle and tap, tap, tap with moderate force with a 4 lb. hammer or so. HEAVY blows will crack this thin JD hub for sure. Thousands of hits later, constantly adding soaker to the crack, you'll see rust popping out with each blow. Gently heat occasionally with the rosebud, too much heat too quickly and the hub will split when cooling. I usually heat and walk away to let it cool and shrink. The heat is doing its thing as it cools, as the cast hub and the steel axle cool at a different rate. Once you see movement, drive it back the other way and then back and forth, cleaning with a wire wheel.

Its not unusual to take a lot of time to successfully remove these without damage. The last set took me 10 to 15 minutes every evening for several weeks to remove, but they did come off with no damage.

I have done all the above in addition to a 50 ton hydraulic jack against the end of the axle with a piece of grade 70 chain over the end of the jack and to each side of the hub held in place with appropriate grade 8 bolts. If the chain links are too small for the bolts, swell them in a vice with a drift punch and a little heat. Do the same with the link thats over the end of the jack. Oh yeah, a little prep with the jack: butt weld a grade 8 bolt stub on the end of the stem to hold the chain from popping off the side too easily. Then that jack becomes dedicated to hub removal duty, or just grind the bolt stub off.

Or...locate new hubs and heat these puppies up nice and red and beat'em off with a sledge....

Safety note...the 50 ton jack, if you so desire to use this option, will be under a lot of pressure and may "pop" off the axle and knock the dickens out of your leg or whatever is next to it. So be careful....grade 70 chain and grade 8 bolts are a must !!!!

I'm sure there are dozens of ideas, many much better than this and I hope you get some additional suggestions because I could use some more ideas myself...

Sorry for the length, it's hard to shorten without leaving out something....good luck, sir.
 

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I agree about cleaning out the splines as you work it out. I did that on my G Styled when I moved the wheels out some. They was full of dirt/grim and paint where they painted on top of it. What I did was move it back and forth while cleaning out the splines.
 

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Southern said:
I agree about cleaning out the splines as you work it out. I did that on my G Styled when I moved the wheels out some. They was full of dirt/grim and paint where they painted on top of it. What I did was move it back and forth while cleaning out the splines.
You are correct, sir. All you need to see is a little movement and you know its ultimately going to come off. They can be a very difficult experience for sure. For these, patience is a grand virtue to possess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I haven't worked on it the past 2 days! So far i haven't gotten any movement in either direction! These things have been in this position for hard to tell how long, and these tires have bled Calcium over them for years. Rims are wasted! They are the pressed steel type. Centers can be patched up and cosmetic work done. Rims rings will be replaced!

Actually i wouldn't move em, but it will not fit on my trailer the way it is. Also while i have the wheels off i'm removing the axles and put new seals in, check out the bearings, and work on the PTO shaft, it has a groove cut in it from seal wear. Machine shop run for that! Also gonna replace the Carbureter, It apparently has got water in it sometime in the past and froze, the main body on it has been broken into 3 or 4 pieces! it has been brazed back together kinda crudely, and leaks everywhere, can't really even adjust it at all. Alot to do this fall, hopefully before winter! I have a feeling i will need it to plow Snow this winter!!!!!
 

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emcasull454 said:
Also while i have the wheels off i'm removing the axles and put new seals in, check out the bearings, and work on the PTO shaft, it has a groove cut in it from seal wear. Also gonna replace the Carbureter, It apparently has got water in it sometime in the past and froze, the main body on it has been broken into 3 or 4 pieces! it has been brazed back together kinda crudely, and leaks everywhere, can't really even adjust it at all.
Sounds like quite the project...Have you located a carb yet ?? I think it's gonna be a bit pricey.
 

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-Willy-
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Mcgrew Tractor parts (866-521-9515) ballpark is $250

A carb kit will run about $20. Go to a auto parts store and ask if they know of anyone that can "boil" your carb. Its a powerful cleaner that can be neutralized with water. Otherwise send it off to https://robertscarbrepair.com/ to get it completely professionally rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got one of em off today! Alot of torch heat and a big hammer! Finally got it to move by driving it further on. Cleaned the splines, then drove it back off! Hope the other one does the same! Found a rebuilt DLTX 53 already painted and ready to use for $300
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just finished with the second one! Good news is i got it off. Bad news is it come off in 3 pieces!!!!!
 
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