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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

I posted some pics of this late model C when it came to live here 9 maybe 10 months ago...now its his turn to get some attention.

Loaded with tons of neat stuff not normally found on a tractor, like spot lights, siren, circulating fan and a 12v alternator running off the belt pully, the old gentleman that owned this kept it at deer camp to bush hog and plow plots. It has sat in the woods for at least 7 years and appears to be stuck from sitting.

The seat now full of those accessories I'm not gonna be needing...besides I can turn in the copper wire and sell the working accessories and maybe end up with a free little C !!

No sludge under the valve cover...a little superficial rust ain't so bad.

Really, it's not that bad...but we'll see what the under side looks like.....

Well, this isn't too good...but what I didn't tell you is that all the liquid there??? Well I've been shooting atf/acetone down the plug holes every few days since the little guy came here and that is the residual atf from yesterdays dose. May still get lucky, don't know....fingers crossed, the saga continues. I got a few more shots today, but don't have them on photobucket yet.
 

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Wendell,
Great shots of the little C. How can you tell if these are boys or girls? My dad always called them (tractors) girls. But we had a Amish neighbor that always said his stationary engine for the shop was a 'He'??? Just messying with you:)
Hey those pictures may give me some inspiration to work on the WD. Or they may make me go look at that little CA near by that has been neglected, just check to see if it might be for sale. An Allis CA would be for the wife. Her initials are 'CA' Cheryl Ann:) She just doesn't know about it yet.
Anyway your C is a little gem. I hope your work soaking the cylinders pays off. To me I see quite a lot of surface rust in the right cylinder above the piston. Can you remove that, like with a wire brush?
Those rear tires look real good!
Love the accessories but I agree, time for them to go.
Looking forward to many more pictures of your progress on the little C.
Regards,
Chris
 

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Shoot me a price on that siren...would go real nice on one of the miniature fire trucks we use for parades.
 

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I remember this project! :)
 

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Looks to be a really good project. Looks like the stuck cyl was near the end of exh stroke so maybe when the ATF gets to leaking by that one you'll get her to roll backward and come loose. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sugarmaker said:
I see quite a lot of surface rust in the right cylinder above the piston. Can you remove that, like with a wire brush?
Regards,
Chris
I'll end up dropping the crank Chris. I was thinking maybe it wouldn't have to be done originally which is why its mounted on the stand from the front. That being said and this being a sleeved engine, I will do a hone job then mic the bores as well as the pistons. If too far out, it'll be time for new sleeves, pistons and rings. But if they mic out ok, the hone job should clean the sleeves up quite adequately. With pistons removed the lands can be cleaned and fresh set of rings can go in at the least. It for sure will have the head reworked also.
DerickS said:
I remember this project! :)
:geek:
Kinda hard to forget one that comes in like this one did isn't it Derick...and soundguy, we'll see how well my luck holds out...
Ernie N Ky said:
Shoot me a price on that siren...would go real nice on one of the miniature fire trucks we use for parades.
The siren is stuck just as tight as the motor Ernie !!! I can't budge it one way or the other. I got it sprayed with bustemloose too.


With a little finagalling the motor does in fact mount from the front and hanging low with it upside down is quite stable. However with it right side up it is for sure top heavy. This would've been the ideal application for one of the three larger home made stands, but they are all occupied with v-8's right now, (well, one has an Oliver 4 banger on it), so this little $29.95 Cummins I got for $14.95 when they closed the local store will have to do...More as time allows...I have to get the WC Road Patrol warmed up and ready because the weather experts are calling for 6" to 12" snow today and tonight.
 

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Wendell, I suggest that you replace the freeze plugs in the head while you have it off. Save you some head aches down the road
 

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It don't look too bad. I've seen heads in worse shape on loose engines. Sleeves look a bit rusty. :?
Even if the sleeves clean up good, I would go ahead and replace the o-rings on them since I had it down that far. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
4imnotright said:
Wendell, I suggest that you replace the freeze plugs in the head while you have it off. Save you some "head" aches down the road
I was kinda thinking the same thing Steve and.....I liked the "pun".

Big Dave, it'll get the o-rings for sure, and whatever else it needs at the same time....except paint that is. Did ya notice by chance the Farmall wheel weights ?? Those'll look much better on my H.
 

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Wndell I remember the post you did on this one when you got it. I still think it should have went into a musume for good old American cobbling. I loved the way the guy that owned it had enginered all the conveniences a man could need in a tractor. Deffinately not a half fast job he took his time and put some thought into it. I really like the way the bigger tires make it look to, Hopefully you can get by without a lot of machine work cause that stuff gets costly quick. Be sure and keep us posted on the progress. I sure am going to miss the fan cause to this day thats about the coolest thing I ever seen on a tractor. :) By the way I like the pulling chain, got one just like it.
 

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Yep, Wendell I remeber this C. With all its options, it will have plenty of bling when you finish. :eek: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Pulling the shifting forks didn't show much except some watery brown 140 wt. and some superficial rust on the top halves of the gears.

Got the torque tube removed to get a better look at the input shaft and bearing after pulling the side cover and shifting forks.

A good use for some cheap galvanized angle salvaged off a job last summer. Don't like to use galvanized for building stuff, for this it'll be fine. Plus I won't have to get into the good steel pile.

The little fellow looks like he got caught with his pants down here....all exposed and embarrassed you know.

Looking like some excessive wear here on the input splines...good thing there's an old B torque tube and rear end down in the woods. Going to have to drag it up to the shed and have a look....it CAN'T be any worse I don't believe. Maybe BigDave will tell me the older B and later model C input shafts will or won't interchange. I'm always optimistic.....more to come as time allows.
 

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Yes, and no, Wendell :?
If the B rear is newer than 1940 yes, if older and the B didn't have hydraulics, no.
Pto shaft has cams on it that run the hydraulic pump. After '40 they had same shaft with or without hydraulics.
Also the older B might have 1 1/8" splines, but that wouldn't be a problem as you can put an adaptor on it if your gonna use it. ;)
 

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If that's the transmission input shaft I think they would be the same. I agree with Dave on the differences of the PTO and hyd pump cam on the early B.
 

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missouri massey man said:
The siren is stuck just as tight as the motor Ernie !!! I can't budge it one way or the other. I got it sprayed with bustemloose too.
Probably aluminum and stainless. Our new truck is mainly aluminum with stainless fasteners...every bolt on that thing ends up breaking.
 

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like to gall and then catch and break don't they? I hate threading into aluminum.. eaither feels too loose or strips. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·

This is the donor B torque tube, transmission and final drive.

Last summer when I picked up a late model 4000 Ford, the fellow had this plus the front pedestal off a C with two good rims and steering arm and a bunch of other misc tractor parts and pieces tossed into a big pile. He let me pick out all the stuff I wanted as it was on the way to the junk yard that afternoon. One other item I scrounged out of the pile was a two row corn planter...just remembered...it is in MrsMassey's flower patch right now....(second of two).

Number B9662...haven't looked it up yet, but looking at the cast centers I'm thinking '39, '40ish....

I'm getting too lazy to kneel down on the ground...these pipe stands are nice for building trailer frames (leveling and squaring) or for doing stuff like this...There's a salvage company in StLouis that buys out businesses going under and I got about 5 or 6 of these for $35.00 each. Can't go wrong at that price.

...and it doesn't hurt having 3 or 4 railroad jacks around too....very stable and quick once you get the hang of them....AND their hydraulics NEVER fail !!!!

Good Lord !!! Look at these shifting forks, the rack is worn badly and I noticed that it would only shift two gears and the other side the shifter flopped all over and did not attempt to move the fork at all, feeling as though it wasn't in the shifter rail at all. And just how nice does the transmission lubricant look.....sweeeeeet !!!!

However, the input shaft is in excellent condition, no excessive wear on it like on the "Restomod C". This one had a universal joint and cotter key attaching the shafts together instead of the slip on female/female splined coupling. The shafts are identical in length, so I'm thinking the u-jointed one is going back in because the wear on the other matches the wear on the transmission input. :(

Again, some real sweeeeeet transmission lubricant inside the donor...by comparison lets look inside the Restomod C:

Obviously a lot of water mixed in with probably 90 wt in this one...you can see some pitting on the gears, but in general this one is in much better shape. Looking real close at the donors gears they reveal a lot of grinding and rounding of the corners of the teeth and this one does not.

No reason to think the rear end is going to be any better as its all a common sump...Right now I'm trying to decide how to proceed to pull that transmission input shaft with the least amount of effort. (Maybe BigDave or John(IN) will chime in again and give me a pointer.) I'm kinda thinking the finals need to come out first.........BigDave ol' buddy ?????

It looks like the shaft I'm needing (what I'm calling the transmission input shaft) might be a two piece shaft, the front half splined on both ends with the back splined end entering a female at the rear end's front bearing. It's so greasy that a good look cannot be taken yet...If so, I just need the front half, if not, I need the total shaft from the front all the way to the pto. Is there a shortcut ??? I'm not wanting MrsMassey to get too greasy..... :D
 
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