[EricR]

My SC Case has has spent long times sitting, and with water in the carb. I have taken it apart, cleaned as well as I could and put in a kit. However, I can't seem to get it right and just think that all that pitting has to have damaged internal passages.

Tanks been cleaned and relined, good flow of fuel. I just can't get it to idle nice or consistent.

I see a rebuilt one on another site with a core charge. and Steiner's has a NEW one for (cough~) three hundred bucks. I live a long way from where my beast lives and when I do go there, I have jobs for it. And I just wanna bolt something on.

Has anyone had any luck with these rebuilders?

 

[4imnotright]

Eric, you'll need to soak it in carb cleaner atleast overnite completely immerse it disassembled, then use your air compressor to blow it out.

 

[wizzard]

ive had this guy do 5 or 6 carbs for us. a fellow member here turned me on to him a couple years ago and we've ben very pleased with his prices and workmanship. www.popinjohn.com oh and he does more then just JD carbs

 

[EricR]

I am really looking for a bolt on situation, I live nearly 500 miles from my tractor which is at my inlaws and I don;t want to spend all Memorial day weekend screwing around with it, I'm willing to spend the money, plus mine has worn throttle shafts etc.

 

[LikesRedTractors]

bolt on and go is a tall order, every time I've installed a "bolt on" "ready to run" carb it's needed at least minor tuning. Your best bet for a bolt and go is to remove your carb, turn all adjustment screws in till they seat, counting the number of turns. Write down this number and send it off to be rebuilt. When you get it back, turn all screws in till they seat, then back out the number of turns you wrote down. Bolt it on, fine tune as needed (should be within 1/2 turn) and go. All else is just a best guess as far as bolt on and go tractoring goes.

 

[bikerdave]

Red Tractors, that works fine unless someone has been trying to compensate for a bunged up carb with adjustment screws. I would be leery if more than three turns out.

 

[LikesRedTractors]

Red Tractors, that works fine unless someone has been trying to compensate for a bunged up carb with adjustment screws. I would be leery if more than three turns out.

That's true, but it may be the best bet, unless someone has been crankin' on the adjustments then well maybe start at about 2 turns off the seat

 

[EricR]

New Zenith replacement on the way, 243 bucks shipped from YT. Yes, I understand mixture adjustments, just didn't want to have to rebuild the thing up there where the tractor is.

 

[LikesRedTractors]

Oh, Ok so you are aware of the need for tuning. Then yes a bolt and tune (new or re-manufactured) will do what you want.

 

[EricR]

Long story short, new carb works great. Had to mod the somewhat universal linkage for the throttle and choke (adjust it) and she was good to go. It's a larger throat size than OE by about 1/8th inch and seems to make more power by the butt dyno". As I suspected, the throttle shaft was very worn out on the old one. Now it will idle down so slow you can about count the stripe on the generator belt going by. Maybe 250 RPM? The rain cap on the muffler barely opens and the exahust is like a ffft ffft ffft sound.

I had to clean some crud from the system which kept me frustrated and "barking up the wrong tree" for an hour or so, a love bug made it into the carb inlet after a half hour of pushing a pile of manure around with the loader to work it hard. Now I know the sediment bowl screen does not catch all and an inline clear filter will be installed in the short piece of hose connecting my sediment bowl outlet to the line going to the carb.

So much for the inlaw claiming he "used a clean gas can..."