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Discussion Starter #21
RJ: Yep, the 102 is supposed to be kerosene powered! But kerosene is hard to get and very expensive here in Sweden so I'm running mine on gasoline only. I think mine is an exported example, as far as i know it was sold new here in Sweden. But it's not a gasoline only variant, because it has two fuel tanks and is fitted with pre-heating of the manifold to burn the kerosene easier. Also, the engine is according to the engine tag a Continental FA162D, not 140. Witch is a little strange...

Iko: Ok, well it's not really any point of me getting a password if the tractor isn't in the lists then, thanks for checking that! I think I've got to get the manual because just that page that you sent was very helpful, now i finally understand what the "twin power" thing is! And I was wondering why i could only pull the throttle halfway, now i know that i have to be in top gear to do that.

203Ind: Yeah i guess you might be right in that they think it could hurt new sales, And just as you say, they could make some money selling spares for older models.
As far as I know (but I don't know much about this) the 101 model is about the same as the 102 accept for the kerosene parts, and from reading Iko's manual picture it seems like they're pretty similar to the senior versions as well frame and transmissionwise at least, but to be fair i know very little about this...
 

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I have the manual "service data" which lists many models, but not yours. It's for model 21 and up to 555. But maybe I'll find data for your engine FA162D, will let you know when I get home. That manual you can buy the download for will help you a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It's a bit strange to me how this type of Massey seems to be so unknown... And why it wouldn't be in the same manual since i think both 21 and 555 where made around the same time? A little later maybe? Maybe it's just that a lot of things are different between the 102 and those models? I don't know. But if you find any info about the engine I would be very thankful for that!
And yeah I think I'm going to go with that manual, it seems good.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks a lot for checking! Some engine data is always better than none!
That link seems very useful as well! Exploded views of parts ad parts lists are very helpful when you're trying to figure out how something works! Thanks a lot :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I did my first real test drive of the Massey today, turned out ok. The cap on the water pump turned out to be a grease cup, so i filled it with fresh grease. The tractor started up on the first turn and ran well. The steering has quite a bit of play in it, so suggestions for how to reduce the play are more than welcome! :) It was also quite hard to drive because the throttle has pretty much only two positions, idle and max rpm. I don't think it's supposed to be like that, and i don't get why it is like that, If i move the throttle one notch the butterfly on the carburetor opens fully... It also leaks a bit of fuel from both the fuel tap and the connection to the carburetor, but that's mainly when the fuel is on. The radiator and water pump are leaking a bit of water as well, and the radiator started to boil after a bit of driving, so I'll have to do something about that...
 

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Definitely it's not supposed to be like that. I think your carburetor needs adjusted and cleaned. On my 33 as I move the throttle lever the RPM goes from low to quite high in very small increments. I still got a carb kit and will open it up and clean it really well, as I can see some gas oozing a bit around the carb. Probably old gaskets and such.

I had trouble with fuel leaking, fixed with a new sediment bowl assembly. I'd be concerned about the boiling radiator. Did you make sure the water pump circulates the coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I have already had the carburetor apart and cleaned it out good, and it feels like it's pretty ok adjusted, maybe the main jet needs a little bit of an adjustment if anything. It feels almost like the throttle linkage is "geared wrong" you see, if i as much as open the throttle a notch, the butterfly on the turns wide open, so there must be something wrong. Possibly with the governor I'm thinking?

The sediment bowl on mine actually doesn't leak at all. The carburetor as well is leak-free. The leaks are actually around the fuel tap, and at the fuel pipe connection to the carburetor.
Yes, the water pump seems to be pumping as it should, I'm thinking that it might just be a lot of rust and sludge in the radiator that's causing overheating? I think I'm going to take the radiator off and flush it a few times and see if that helps. Or check the thermostat, that's something i also have yet to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yep, when I have time I'll clean it out, i really wanted to do it this weekend but other things got in the way... Saturday night i came by the workshop around midnight on my way home, and i thought I'd just try some quick things with the throttle linkage, but i could not get it right... It seems just as if it's geared to high. My only guess now is that it's something wrong with the governor, i don't know if it's supposed to "hold back" the linkage arm going to the carburetor, that's my only guess left... I'll have to take a closer look at it next time.

Thanks a lot for that link! That'll surely come in handy while working on the engine! I haven't read it through yet but maybe there's even some info about the governor/throttle!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Now I've finally learned to navigate this new version of the forum!
Not too much has happened since last, but I did actually pour out the old transmission oil, and it wasn't a pretty sight... It looked like molten chocolate mixed with rust and slime, I'd barely call it oil by this point.
It was also overfilled, it seems like there's supposed to be 23 liters of oil, but i poured out about 35 liters, so i guess that might be why there was oil leaking out of the wheel axles.
I'm going to buy some new oil tomorrow and hopefully that'll at least quiet down the growling a bit.

Does anyone have any tips on how to stop the fuel line from leaking? It's leaking both from the tap and one of the brass unions on the line. Is there any way to seal them?
 

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Oh wow, 35 liters! That's something I need to do as well on my 33, just haven't got around it.

Regarding your fuel line. It's most likely compression fitting, and the problem with those when they get old is that they've been over tightened by previous owners and at some point there no more to tighten up. As a quick solution you can use teflon tape on the thread and also on the compression portion. May work. Those lines are usually the same as the compression fittings used on automotive brakes. I just replaced a portion of a gas line going into my MH 33 carburetor with brake steel line outer diameter of tube 5/16 and compression fitting was SAE 1/2-20. I got the steel brake line from a parts store.

I don't know what you mean by leaking at the tap. Which tap? There you can also try teflon tape if it leaks around the threads. Or maybe replace the tap?

My sediment bowl was leaking in many places, and I could not get it to stop, so a new one took care of that, no more leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I got the new oil in the transmission today! It didn't really help with the noise but it at least feels better now that i know there's fresh oil in there. I also got the belt pulley and PTO to work! I flushed the transmission housing with diesel when i cleaned it from old oil, and i think the diesel got the lever unstuck. It's apparently supposed to be pushed forwards and not to the side as i thought.

You're probably right about the fittings being overtightened to many times. I'll try the teflon tape since i have some at home, it's worth a shot at least! By the tap i meant the fuel tap, sorry for being unclear! It's a 3-way tap, So you can switch over from petrol to distillate when the engine is warmed up. It's leaking both when it's turned on and of, and I'm not sure if it's possible to seal it with teflon tape... And i don't think it'll be very easy to find a new one, but I'll look and see if i can find one!
The sediment bowl on mine is surprisingly pretty much the only part of the fuel line that's completely leak-free!
 

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Oh that tap. I'm sure you can put a different 2 way fuel tap, just see what thread it has.

Look at my transmission oil. Must change it.

 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yeah maybe, I'll have to think about it.
That oil looks about the same as mine colorwise, Mine had almost the consistency of grease, yours looks a bit better i think, but it looks like it really needs to be changed as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Tried the teflon tape, I don't know what kind of teflon tape you have in Canada but the one i had almost dissolved from the petrol, so that didn't really work out.
Also I'm so annoyed with myself because I can't figure out what's wrong with the throttle linkage. I feel really stupid because there's probably a very simple solution to it, but iI don't get it... Also, i see now that the carburetor itself is very sensitive as well, the idle screw for the butterfly is turned in almost all the way to get it to idle, and if you move the butterfly ever so slightly the engine revs like crazy. Is there some adjustment you think could cause this or fix this?
 

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Oh no! Do you have any blue (medium) threadlocker paste? Some people say that works well.

Have you opened your carburetor? If the needles don't sit well in the jets (if they are grooved from over thightening) you might get this type of behaviour. Taking the needles out and looking at the tip should be easy. Being that old you should most likely disassemble it and clean it really well. See if you can find a rebuild kit. You just have to be careful, for instance the rebuild kit I got most parts don't fit my carb, so it was pretty useless, so there goes about $40.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hmm, do you mean Loctite or something like that? I don't think I have any at home but I could get some if that might work.
I have had the carburetor completely apart and cleaned it out, and it looked good according to me at least, the reason why I took it apart was because there wasn't any fuel coming through to the engine. It turned out only to be the float needle or whatever it's called that was stuck. Everything else looked good in my opinion.
 

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Hmm, do you mean Loctite or something like that? I don't think I have any at home but I could get some if that might work.
Yes. Loctite and Permatex are both very popular here, it's always good to have some around. My teflon tape works on my carb fuel line but it's not recommended.
 
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