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Discussion Starter #21
Just came from the hardware store. It's not 1/4 npt. Size wise seems fine, but different thread pitch, I will figure it out eventually. Someone on a different website in some other discussion said it's sae 1/2-20
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'm thinking of putting a ball valve on top. What do you think? Yay or nay?

 

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Looks like, to me, that it may make your settling bulb too low. The carburetor is gravity fed, so, if both the bulb and fuel line is lower than your carburetor, it may cause fuel feeding issues. On most all that I have saw, the bulb is supposed to screw directly into the bottom of the tank. If I wanted another shutoff valve, I would probably splice it into the line going down to the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Looks like, to me, that it may make your settling bulb too low. The carburetor is gravity fed, so, if both the bulb and fuel line is lower than your carburetor, it may cause fuel feeding issues. On most all that I have saw, the bulb is supposed to screw directly into the bottom of the tank. If I wanted another shutoff valve, I would probably splice it into the line going down to the carb.
Right. It puts it about 3" lower. Can't verify the fit until next Saturday though.


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Discussion Starter #25
There are some mini valves online, will look for one.

I really want a valve before the bulb not after, to eliminate the possibility of a leak at the sediment bowl assembly. A few weeks ago about 3 gallons of gas went on the driveway, hated that. It's about 20 feet from the vegetable garden. It upset me quite a lot.
 

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There are some mini valves online, will look for one.

I really want a valve before the bulb not after, to eliminate the possibility of a leak at the sediment bowl assembly. A few weeks ago about 3 gallons of gas went on the driveway, hated that. It's about 20 feet from the vegetable garden. It upset me quite a lot.
I see your point of having a shutoff. a leak without a shutoff can be a polluting mess,
I agree with RJ on that particular setup. It is a nice valve and all but all the fittings make it long and lower the bowl. It also puts leverage 0n the fuel tank fitting. Even vibration of the engine may stress the tank soldered in fitting with the long valve and bowl on the end. A valve with male into the tank and female for the bowl assembly may work.

I forgot your fitting size but this may work without lowering it to much.
I have cursed not being able to shut off fuel while cleaning the bowl.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Ball-Valve-3-8-MALE-X-FEMALE-NPT-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Body-450-psi-M-X-F/191584769989?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item2c9b5797c5:g:hokAAOSwpDdVXRZV&enc=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&checksum=191584769989aa3045d3cbf24e5983f0e03e3bf2281c
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you, I saw that but eBay deliveries can sometimes take really long so I found something on amazon. This: ordered today, 3/8 male -male npt.



It's stainless, could not find brass. The reason for male to male instead of male-female is because there's a thinner pipe going up from the 3/8 threads.



That is about 1/2" and it would push against the valve's ball. But I have a 1" coupler female-female to extend the lower part of the valve into which the top of the sediment bowl assembly screws. The valve from amazon is 2". Because they all screw into each other the 3" total will become less, maybe 2-1/4 total addition to the length.

We'll see when it arrives. I'm not totally happy that the coupler is brass and goes on stainless steel. There can be corrosion in between dissimilar metals.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Found this good picture of the carb side. Looks like maybe it'll be ok to lower the bulb about 2.5".

Screen Shot 2020-02-22 at 8.48.49 PM.jpg
 

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Thank you, I saw that but eBay deliveries can sometimes take really long so I found something on amazon. This: ordered today, 3/8 male -male npt.



It's stainless, could not find brass. The reason for male to male instead of male-female is because there's a thinner pipe going up from the 3/8 threads.



That is about 1/2" and it would push against the valve's ball. But I have a 1" coupler female-female to extend the lower part of the valve into which the top of the sediment bowl assembly screws. The valve from amazon is 2". Because they all screw into each other the 3" total will become less, maybe 2-1/4 total addition to the length.

We'll see when it arrives. I'm not totally happy that the coupler is brass and goes on stainless steel. There can be corrosion in between dissimilar metals.
That little nipple coming out of the fitting on your fuel bowl is so your not getting fuel from the very bottom of the tank where muck and rust settle.
If your tank is pretty clean you may be ok. Your fuel bowl will catch water and small rust. Its the stuff that cant flow through that clogs.
I had a fuel tank without a bowl that was clogging with rust. I took the fitting out and fit a snug fitting piece of tubing about 1/2 inch long into the fitting so I wasn't getting bottom muck. About 1/4 off the bottom. I later lined the tank with sealant. Red something
You could do that to your valve.
I think you cleaned your tank but it doesn't take long to get more in there.
A short piece of tubing may save grief. no soldering. Just a good snug fit works
 

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Discussion Starter #30
That little nipple coming out of the fitting on your fuel bowl is so your not getting fuel from the very bottom of the tank where muck and rust settle.
If your tank is pretty clean you may be ok. Your fuel bowl will catch water and small rust. Its the stuff that cant flow through that clogs.
I had a fuel tank without a bowl that was clogging with rust. I took the fitting out and fit a snug fitting piece of tubing about 1/2 inch long into the fitting so I wasn't getting bottom muck. About 1/4 off the bottom. I later lined the tank with sealant. Red something
You could do that to your valve.
I think you cleaned your tank but it doesn't take long to get more in there.
Emptied the tank but didn't clean it yet, and there is crud coming down the pipe occasionally. At some point I'll take the tank off and clean it well. I once had a boat with a steel tank in pretty bad shape inside; put a couple of cups of pebbles/gravel and did a lot of shaking. Then washed well, it was good. No experience with tank liners though I've seen reports all over the place about it. Something I might do at some point

A short piece of tubing may save grief. no soldering. Just a good snug fit works
I was planning to put a tube made of stainless screen material there. Because I don't really like the idea that there's some gas there at the bottom sitting unused for a long time. Though it does mix with fresh fuel you pour in, still, somehow I think I like more the screen idea. Sure, if water will sit at the bottom it'd be a problem. But the sediment bowl is supposed to deal with that, no?
 

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Emptied the tank but didn't clean it yet, and there is crud coming down the pipe occasionally. At some point I'll take the tank off and clean it well. I once had a boat with a steel tank in pretty bad shape inside; put a couple of cups of pebbles/gravel and did a lot of shaking. Then washed well, it was good. No experience with tank liners though I've seen reports all over the place about it. Something I might do at some point



I was planning to put a tube made of stainless screen material there. Because I don't really like the idea that there's some gas there at the bottom sitting unused for a long time. Though it does mix with fresh fuel you pour in, still, somehow I think I like more the screen idea. Sure, if water will sit at the bottom it'd be a problem. But the sediment bowl is supposed to deal with that, no?
I do agree that's what the bowl is suppose to do. The issue I was having was larger rust flakes clogging above the bowl. A constant pain in the a:;
I also don't like that water lays in the bottom of the tank with the raised tube. That rusts tanks out.
The best thing is a clean tank. I don't have long term experience with the tank sealer.
It did cure the rust problem.
The small gravel will loosen the rust. It can be hard to get all the rocks back out if the tank has baffles. I ended up just leaving a couple rocks in my I.H 706 tank. Your tank is probably all open inside.
I have read of guys using stainless ball bearings also.

The raised tube may also be made for a filter screen to fit over. Some come with screens
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I'm in complete agreement with you. Can't tell how much I appreciate being able to bounce ideas here.

I got the other shut-off valve yesterday but didn't get a chance to try it on the assembly I was all day in the hunting course. I am now licensed for bow hunting.

The new valve shaves about 1" off the length as compared to the one from the hardware store. I'm optimistic about it being above the carb.

Little by little all the issues will get solved.

 

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Your bowl already has a shut off built in. I didn't it notice before. That brass handle is a shutoff. You shouldn't need the other valve. Unless you want it to remove the whole bowl unit for a reason.
The link to the valve on ebay would have eliminated the brass sleeve. Male to female would be a direct fit. No adaptors
You still have the same gravity drop from the tank. That should be ok.
The tractor will let you know.
I once added a filter that wouldn't work on my gravity fed carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Your bowl already has a shut off built in. I didn't it notice before. That brass handle is a shutoff. You shouldn't need the other valve. Unless you want it to remove the whole bowl unit for a reason.
It is indeed a shutoff valve, but of different design, and I will not remove it. I don't trust that it will not leak in time.

The link to the valve on ebay would have eliminated the brass sleeve. Male to female would be a direct fit. No adaptors
True, but here's the problem. That nipple is 7/16 diameter and 5/16 long. It most likely doesn't fit in the female side of the shut off valve, from what I've seen. I wanted to go for a sure solution.

3BCEDA6A-C578-48F1-B840-B9271793D38A_1582648839193.jpg

You still have the same gravity drop from the tank. That should be ok.
The tractor will let you know.
I once added a filter that wouldn't work on my gravity fed carb.
Yes, I also have an inline fuel filter between the bowl and carb, but that seems to be fine.

As you say, the proof is on the tractor, and I'll find out Saturday if it fits ok or not. I'll post an update as soon as I find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
So I wanted to get the oil pump pressure relief valve spring online. Added it to the cart and got a $3039 shipping estimate. While this is obviously an error, from other online parts stores I got estimates like $94, and the cheapest $46. For a little 2" spring. What's worse is that I can't find a source for such parts in Canada. So frustrating.


Screen Shot 2020-02-28 at 3.02.53 PM.jpg

Out of curiosity I looked at the rate of sending a first class international parcel from Florida to Toronto. It's about $13. I really don't understand why the crazy shipping at online stores.

Screen Shot 2020-02-28 at 4.04.57 PM.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Finally had time to work on the tractor yesterday and the research I had done for the past two all came together.

The replacement sediment bowl I got was really for the Farmall super M. The vendor did mention Massey Harris in the list but probably a different model. A look at the parts manual for the super M told me that the outlet thread is SAE 1/2-20, so I got some 5/16 brake line and guess what, perfect fit!



Cut it to size, shaped it with a tube bender and this is the result.



No leaks!

Was in a hurry this morning so I cut off my post short.

Gave up on the shut off ball valve between the tank and bowl, not enough elevation for fuel to flow to the carb. Due to the new parts the connections are positive and there are no leaks.



I like the inline fram g3 fuel filter too.



But before doing this there was fun to be had getting the snow away so I could get in.



 

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You are doing maintenance that was neglected. Its not unusual with tractors to find them in that condition. Taking care of it you may get some good service out of it. Your compression in that one cylinder won't kill anything. Maybe you can get some compression back after some use. Detergent oil helps do that.
I know you are in a cold climate but I would use a heavier viscosity oil. You could install a block heater in a freeze plug. Plugging it in the night before a big snow makes starting in the morning so much easier on the engine
 

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Discussion Starter #40
But there's more.

Remember the compression test? Last tests were done with a professional tester, Mac tools, but old and no idea when it was last calibrated. More for laughs than anything I got a cheap digital pressure gauge from amazon, claiming 1% accuracy. First did the test again with the Mac tools gauge.


https://vimeo.com/394789135

Then replaced the gauge.





And did the test again.

https://vimeo.com/394789295
 
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