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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up an NH 68 baler at an auction last summer.Looks like it worked not to many years ago. Only problem that I have seen with it is that the old bales were left in the chamber. I am going to have to check it out and get it working no matter what. I kind of fell into looking after a quarter of land and the hay crop needs to be taken off. The land owner is going digging for gold in the Yukon this summer. As usually happens, I didn't get pictures of it yet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am thinking that if there are old bales in the chamber, it likely still works. Might need a little fine tuning but have always had good luck with NH
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Will have pictures of this and a lot of other toys today. Making sure I take the camera with me so as I can update my posts.
 

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MM, If that baler was mine, I would grease it up good, then try to turn it by hand to make sure nothing hits or binds and it is in time. If it seemes ok, I'd put it behind a tractor, and try to jog the pto for a few spins before lettin' the tractor have its way with it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jim in NC said:
MM, If that baler was mine, I would grease it up good, then try to turn it by hand to make sure nothing hits or binds and it is in time. If it seemes ok, I'd put it behind a tractor, and try to jog the pto for a few spins before lettin' the tractor have its way with it.
Already did that just need to try gently with the tractor now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Was going to try it last weekend but for some reason it had fallen off the block that was under the hitch. Had no jack to lift it up so the next time I am out there I will get it up off the ground and see if it will work. I think I will try this behind Rays 44 if it is OK with him.
 

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Looks good! I have a 270 for a back-up that doesn't have that much red on it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jim in NC said:
Looks good! I have a 270 for a back-up that doesn't have that much red on it.
We had a 270 on the farm when I was a kid. Best baler we had. When it was getting to late in the day to be baling it would skip on one knotter. We retied some bales on the last small patch we had to do one year. We lost every bale we retied by hand. Every other bale was OK. It had a mind of its own.
 

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The NH 68 is a good baler. We ran one for about 2 years on the hobby farm. Until she blew her top. The main part that control the timing, cutting, and tying the bales. Once we found it out it was cheaper to buy another baler. The 68 was replaced by the 276.

I miss the old 68 in action. It was small and worked well for the hobby farm. But now the 276 is a beast on the hayfields. It will make the Ford 3000 strain. I would love to find a nice 5000/5600 or 7000/7600 to pull it with.

 

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Nice picture of the baler and the Ford in action!
Regards,
Chris
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tried baling a little bit yesterday with it. Found the flywheel had come loose. Got that all fixed up and tried again. Being that I am working on pretty rough land, picked up a root without seeing it and busted one of the twine needles. Off to the parts yard for more. I think I am going to grab a couple of them while I am there,just in case. The fun of putting it in and checking the timing. Other than those little setbacks it works quite well.
 

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Massey you will get it going good . you know that kind of work.
 

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masseymechanic said:
Not so good with balers. They can be very tricky to set properly.

Massey got it going yet ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Went to a local welding shop to see if they could fix the twine needle for me. Price was $300.00 and it would take at least 6 hours to do. Took it back to my shop, dug out the grinder, mig welder and cutting torch. Set everything in place and clamped it. Gave it a good spot weld on both sides. Ground out the side that wasn't spot welded and heated it red hot with the torch. Cranked the heat up on the welder and set to welding that side. Turned everything over and did the same on the other side. Turned it 1/4 turn and repeated the process, and once again for the last side. Found an old welding glove and wrapped it around the weld and left it to cool on its own. When it was cooled off completely I took it and put it back on the baler. Works better than brand new. Who says you can't weld cast with a mig welder. Tried the baler out when I got it all together and it works perfect.
 

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I just knew you could do it and so you did.
 

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masseymechanic said:
Went to a local welding shop to see if they could fix the twine needle for me. Price was $300.00 and it would take at least 6 hours to do. Took it back to my shop, dug out the grinder, mig welder and cutting torch. Set everything in place and clamped it. Gave it a good spot weld on both sides. Ground out the side that wasn't spot welded and heated it red hot with the torch. Cranked the heat up on the welder and set to welding that side. Turned everything over and did the same on the other side. Turned it 1/4 turn and repeated the process, and once again for the last side. Found an old welding glove and wrapped it around the weld and left it to cool on its own. When it was cooled off completely I took it and put it back on the baler. Works better than brand new. Who says you can't weld cast with a mig welder. Tried the baler out when I got it all together and it works perfect.
You're right Colin, Both the needles on my 268 got broken dead in half when the timing chain broke in the middle of a tie. I just pulled out my old Linclon 225 AC tombstone, and burned
a good bead all around them. No preheating, grinding, or slow cooling. Figured if it didn't hold I'd get some replacements. That was fifteen years, and over twenty thousand bales ago.
Still pushing strings through the hay as good as ever. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got the first round of baling done. It skipped knotting a few times but it was a little rusty as well. The more I used it the better it is working.
 
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