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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Today I filled the gear box-hydraulics-rear axle-PTO-pulley with a good oil grade 46. No leaks. The rad is not leaking, the fuel system is not leaking, the injectors are not leaking, the oil filter is not leaking and the gear box is not leaking! This tractor is not going to qualify as a british tractor, ha ha, (no offense pretended). Then I cleaned the rear part of the tractor and primed it. It took me a long while with the spray gun to remove grease remnants in all the many nooks and crannies.

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
And I started to work with the left fender. I hate sheet metal work and I have to admit that I was procrastinating. Both fenders were seriously holed, but Gonzalo repaired the many holes. All I had to do was to remove rust and fill all the cracks, weld pits and bumps. And then prime it. I have spent some four hours or more to finish the outer surface of the fender. Fortunately, it was hot under the sun (remember, I am a vocational shadow tree mechanic!) and paint and putty dried in minutes.

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I think that I will need some twelve hours to sand, fill, sand again and prime the fenders ready for the final urethane paint coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
Yesterday, I have given a coat of urethane paint to the rear gear box, the right footplate and the inside of the right fender. Now it looks like this:

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It clearly needs more coats. It has lots of nooks and crannies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
The threaded holes of the pedestals for the fenders need to be carefully cleaned and oiled to avoid breaking screws while tightening them. A lesson learned the hard way. Pepe likes to say that screws have to be tightened until a quarter of a turn before they break. Pepe has a fine sense of humour.

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The thread is probably a BSF. It is not UNC or UNF. Lots of screws in this tractor were BSF. A nightmare to replace.

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The pedestals are fixed with four screws. Two long and two short. The short screws have to go at the outer holes because the longer inner screws will also fix the seat frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
The right fender in place…

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As you can see, I have put a pot under the tractor because it leaks a bit of gear oil through the gasket between the gear box and the rear axle box. I have tightened the related nuts. Let´s see what happens…
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Once the left fender was repaired sanded and primed I decided to attach it to the tractor before painting it because the fender weights a lot, it is really big and unwieldy And difficult to attach without scratching it. So I thought that it would be easier to paint it once installed.
First, the hand cutch frame has to be fixed to the fender. It is installed with two screws to the fender and two screws to the pedestal. Don ´t put the screws fixing the frame to the pedestal yet because you will need to swing out this part of the frame to create room for the clutch lever. Otherwise you will find yourself struggling in vain to put a heavy fender to the pedestal. Ask me how I know.

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
But the difficulties are not over yet. Once the fender is in its place and the clutch lever properly installed, the recovery spring of the lever has to be installed. Believe me, it is not easy. First, attach it to the lever, then pull forward from the other end of the spring with a plier until you can engage the hook in the foremost end of the lever frame. Good luck!

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All good progress! The spring looks challenging to me too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
This weekend I have spent a lot of time finishing the fenders and readying them for paint. A lot of sanding, filling and priming. The filler primer spray proved essential.

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The fenders are attached to the footplates with BSF screws, 7/16 and 5/16, all of them have gone lost and the thread has to be restored. So I have ordered two sets of thread taps and tomorrow I will try to find the bsf screws somewhere. Not an easy task. Spain has been using metric threads for over 100 years. SAE threads are still available in some good shops, but Whitworth threads are very rare around here. There are many suppliers in Britain, but delivery costs and taxes rise the price of a single screw to ridiculous levels..
On Friday, I took the bonnet to a sheet metal specialist. It was not too damaged, but there were some cuts badly welded and the rear side was corroded and needed professional attention.
I have also ordered a product against oil leaks in gear boxes. I am somewhat sceptic about it but I will try it, anyway.
As many friends came home to spend the day at the countryside and all the men were anxious to play with the mechanics of any tractor ( they even bring their own dungarees), so, instead of painting the fenders and finish them off, I decided to put them all at work with the Fahr D177…
 

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Afternoon,

Your pictures posted here are greatly appreciated really useful to see what you have done.

I hope you don't mind me asking but you said "Now it is clean outside, but the inside has to be cleaned yet" could you tell me how you go about cleaning the inside please?

Many thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
I have been unable to find that comment in the 232 posts!!!

Could you please tell me where did you read it, exactly in which post, so I can give you
something better than a generic answer?

And thank you for your question. It makes me feel well to see that this restoration is arousing some interest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Regarding the BSF screws, I think that I have solved all my needs of weird screws and nuts for ever. After a fruitless search through my usual screw providers, I was dismayed to see that no one had BSF screws. British shops in the net had some supplies, but the prices were very high and the customs agents wait at the border with a renewed greed. So I looked for in Germany but the prices were astonishing, almost 7 € for each 7/16 BSF screw!
So I called a great friend of mine, who owns the best motorbike workshop in Spain, Nitrocycles, and he led me to a screw retailer in Madrid. Believe me, it is the Screw Paradise!
All kinds of screws, threads, nuts… you name it, they have it available! And the prices were incredibly low. I bought about two kg of screws and nuts for 26 €. Now I have to wait the thread taps and the fenders will be ready for paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
When I arrived to the shed today I found this:

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A large chip of primer filler was flaking off the left fender. This sort of things happens when the primer filler is more rigid than the underlying metal. When the metal is hot, for example in summer, the different thermal dilatation coefficients provokes the flaking off of the filler. To avoid this, best that you can do is to apply very thin layers of primer filler.
So, I sanded the area which will have to be restored with a normal filler.

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Expansion and contraction of different adjoining materials is just more proof that physics still works, despite the changes in science that some want us to believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
I tried to finish the attachment of the fenders using the BSF screws, but I realized that the threads were too corroded and the screws were a bit loose. So I decided to drill through the holes and use metric thread taps to adapt new screws. Now the fenders are well fixed to the footplates.
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I have also threaded the holes were the screws of the “scuttle” will be fixed.

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
Expansion and contraction of different adjoining materials is just more proof that physics still works, despite the changes in science that some want us to believe.
So it seems, Jim. So, I decided to observe the fenders to see if there is more primer filler flaking off now that it is really hot around here before painting them. I would not like to come back from holidays and see the fenders with the paint flaking off as if it had some sort of tractor scurvy!
 

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I have been unable to find that comment in the 232 posts!!!

Could you please tell me where did you read it, exactly in which post, so I can give you
something better than a generic answer?

And thank you for your question. It makes me feel well to see that this restoration is arousing some interest.

Couple of people said they sloshed some sand and gravel around inside to clean the tank before pouring that tank lining stuff in; bit it seems like a bodge hoped you had a better way to do it properly?
 

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Two tank outlets because it was originally a TVO engine before conversion no doubt; so the little tank to start it on petrol before switching over to the cheap stuff.

Paint wise I find that a good etch primer before the filler primer gives the desired results.
 
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