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Discussion Starter #1
A friend of mine has proposed me the following deal: To restore this MH 102 junior for him and he will pay me with a David Brown Cropmaster 30 D.
I enclose some pics of the MH
Seems to be in good shape.
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From what I can see that should make a good project tractor.
Having the engine covers is a plus. Too many have been discarded.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here we go.

i have removed the front grill and some sheet metal panel. The screws fixing the panels were fixed with rust to the nuts and had to be cut. All of them.
I removed the manifold together with the Marvel-Scheuble carburettor. The studs fixing the exhaust adaptor broke away and will have to be drilled and tapped again, the rust had affected most of the studs´ section. The exhaust adaptor, made of cast iron, was broken in two even before removal and will need some welding
The engine is seized. Impossible to move it with the cranking lever. I took away the spark plugs and poured some Ballistol in the cilinders. However, I dońt expect miracles and I am already planning the removal of the head.
The PTO lever was seized but some Ballistol and a couple of strikes with a heavy hammer coaxed it into working order. Probably the only thing working properly in this pile of junk.
I feel somewhat overwhelmed...
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By the way.
The steering gear does not work, the steering wheel turns freely, so I opened the Saginaw gear box. What a beautiful piece of engineering. The sector gear stays opposite the worm and shaft, probably because somebody had tampered with the limiting screws in the steering arms. Tomorrow I will lift up the front axle and will try to put the sector gear in its place meshing with the worm gear.
The whole tractor is full of fossilized manure....
 

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Looks like you're off to a good start. It's easy to feel a bit overwhelmed when everything is rusted.
Hope you have plenty of rust breaker. Rome wasn't built in a day. Keep us posted on your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you, Dave.
Today I removed the radiator. The innards were incredibly dirty. The water intake at the head had a lot of straw and other vegetable remnants as if mice had been living inside..
I also removed the generator.
I lifted the sector gear of the steering box but it was impossible to turn it to engage the worm. So I will have to lift the whole box which is fixed by four screws with a difficult access. I have been able to loose two of them. If I finally remove the remaining screws I hope to turn the sector gear to engage the screw and lower the whole unit onto the vertical splined shaft.
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Discussion Starter #9
I also fixed the steering gear. No mean feat. I had to remove the whole unit, extract the sector gear shaft, engage the sector gear to the worm, put the shaft back in the sector gear and put the unit back in its place. I took me a lot of time to put the shaft back in its place.
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Discussion Starter #11
As you can see in the images the cooling passages were full of scales. They were easy to blow off with compressed air. Some looked like vegetal remnants. The radiator was also full of them. Maybe some sort of animal had a laird in the cooling sistem.
By the way, cilinder number four seems to be seized, number one seems ok and number two and three are difficult to assess yet. The surface of the valves are rather corroded.
Next weekend I will open the oil pan and try to turn the crankshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The oil pan came out with a mix of oil and water. Inside the block everything seemed tobe dirty but otherwise in order, so I removed pistons 1 and four
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As the crankshaft still refused to turn, I removed pistons 2 and 3... And for the first time in many years the crankshaft started to turn!

Then it was funny to see all the valves stuck open. So I cleaned them, applied copious amounts of Ballistol and one by one they started to work properly.

The oil pump filter was completely full of sediments and I had to clean it. Probably that´s the reason why the conrod bushings have scratches, and maybe that´s why the engine seized.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Some more sunday afternoon work.

I lapped the sleeves with a very fine sandpaper and oil. And I removed the starter motor. A bit of rust in the pinion, otherwise ok. The flywheel is in perfect order.

Next weekend I will review the pistons. I think I have to change the rings and change all the bushings as in two of them it is impossible to swing the conrod.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is the block without pistons. The sleeves have been lapped. I still need to dedicate some hours to clean the valves and the valve seats as well as the side chamber where the valve actuators and the springs are. This chamber was amazingly dirty. I used compressed air to blew off gross dirt. I ruined my new T-shirt with lots of drops of black oil and grease flying around and my wife was close to send me to sleep with the dog.
My dog was quite relieved when I was pardoned under parole.
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And this is the starter motor. I removed the manure encrusted on the casing and some of the rust off the pinion. I still have to check it.
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Discussion Starter #18
Please check the sleeves. You will see some dark spots in cilinders 3 and 4. Those are areas where corrosion has slightly affected the surface. Would you change the sleeves?
 

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My Dad taught me to run my fingernais over a spot and if it feels smooth all is good.
If it feel rough or fingernails catch then lap it some more.
From what I can tell in the photo they don't look bad, but it's not the same as up close and hands on.
 
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