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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the last couple of years the hoe on the 202 had oil running off the foot boards .
all most ended up on the ground too many times .
so of comes off the valve bank .[attachment=2:2c01irqy]202 345.jpg[/attachment:2c01irqy][attachment=1:2c01irqy]202 346.jpg[/attachment:2c01irqy][attachment=0:2c01irqy]202 347.jpg[/attachment:2c01irqy]
 

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Mine will need that in a couple of years. Well actually could stand it now, :oops:
but is gonna have to wait a couple of years until I build a shop where I can work on it inside. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
massy203 , sent you a pm ,hope it went to you .not very good on the puter .
my 202 was bought when i was about 10 years old. been working on it for a bit now .
me and her about same age .[old and tired . lol]
so shoot will try my best .
 

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Thanks again for your reply. I'm a real rookie regarding tractors but have a vested interest in this mid '60's MF 203 (Perkins AD3 152 diesel, 3 spd., H/L and shuttle) that has seen better days a long time ago. It's got the 200 loader and the 222 hoe (I'm impressed you knew those models!) and while they do what they were designed to do, they need attention. That's another story. The shuttle aspect is a mystery to me. Currently, I can not engage forward or reverse (because of heavy grindage) unless I shut off engine, place shuttle in forward or reverse, restart engine, shift into H or L, and pick a trans gear. Then it will operate in either direction. Is that normal? Soooo, besides a heavy metallic, clanking noise while shuttle is in f or r, it seems to go. Another problem was that sometimes I have to stand on the clutch pedal and the tractor would still move for about 5 long seconds. Well, I got real brave and split this old digger to find out why these conditions were happening. So far I've found: an oiled down clutch (looks and smells like 90wt) a flywheel that has a depression where the disc contacts it that is about a 32nd" deep, and a reverse idler assembly that needs total replacement. Everything else seems/looks to be ok. Although input shaft end play is out of specs and shims are needed. I'm making up a parts wish list and now have to seek out all of them. I hope I haven't bought and created a big boat anchor. Thanks again for listening! Bob











On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 5:21 PM, BigDaveinKY wrote:



Not at all Bob, most shuttle shift tractors work the same. The shuttle shift is a wet clutch reverser on these older tractors.

Should have a forward /neutral /reverse position, no need to use the clutch once you're in a gear, just stop before reversing

direction, but I can't help if you have a problem with those models. By the way which model do you have?

It would be a good idea to get an operator's manual for your tractor, loader and backhoe. They can be bought at Jennsales.com, and have valuable information, like oil levels adjustments, etc. I know the 202 tractors came with a model 100 or 200 loader and a model 220 or 222 backhoe. There may be other models, but those are the ones I know. Should be a serial number tag on each piece, if it hasn't been removed over the years.

Dave.



----- Original Message -----


From:Bob Rankin

To: BigDaveinKY
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 2:59 PM

Subject: Re: workbulls




Thanks for the reply Dave. I think the questions might only have to do with the MF workbull series and in particular I'm after info on the use of the Shuttle Shift usage. Did I lose you right at that point?

Thanks! Bob



On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 12:16 PM, BigDaveinKY wrote:



Sorry Bob, no I don't. I've got an old Ford about the same vintage.

Though I may be able to help if you have some general questions.

Dave


----- Original Message -----

From:[email protected]

To:BigDaveinKY

Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 10:12 AM

Subject: workbulls



Hello BigDaveinKY,

The following is an e-mail sent to you by massey203 via your account on
"AntiqueTractorsForum.com". If this message is spam, contains abusive or
other comments you find offensive please contact the webmaster of the board
at the following address:

[email protected]

Include this full e-mail (particularly the headers). Please note that the
reply address to this e-mail has been set to that of massey203.

Message sent to you follows
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Saw your recent post and wondered if you have one of the workbull series?
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
gorden that is another valve bank, dad got a spare at one time .
still ready to go no rush yet .
massy203 never been around a shuttle shift . i think chowns in sussex have one in there yard .
there is a 203 listed in there list . 506 434 4811 phone no. chown tractor parts .
sounds like the biggest problem is an oil soaked clutch .
i would say the input seals to the trans are rotted out .
on my 6 speed , once you get her split thats the hard part . lots of heavy iron to move to get there .
did you get my pm .
where in maine are you ?
 

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massey203 said:
Thanks again for your reply. I'm a real rookie regarding tractors but have a vested interest in this mid '60's MF 203 (Perkins AD3 152 diesel, 3 spd., H/L and shuttle) that has seen better days a long time ago. It's got the 200 loader and the 222 hoe (I'm impressed you knew those models!) and while they do what they were designed to do, they need attention. That's another story. The shuttle aspect is a mystery to me. Currently, I can not engage forward or reverse (because of heavy grindage) unless I shut off engine, place shuttle in forward or reverse, restart engine, shift into H or L, and pick a trans gear. Then it will operate in either direction. Is that normal? Soooo, besides a heavy metallic, clanking noise while shuttle is in f or r, it seems to go. Another problem was that sometimes I have to stand on the clutch pedal and the tractor would still move for about 5 long seconds. Well, I got real brave and split this old digger to find out why these conditions were happening. So far I've found: an oiled down clutch (looks and smells like 90wt) a flywheel that has a depression where the disc contacts it that is about a 32nd" deep, and a reverse idler assembly that needs total replacement. Everything else seems/looks to be ok. Although input shaft end play is out of specs and shims are needed. I'm making up a parts wish list and now have to seek out all of them. I hope I haven't bought and created a big boat anchor. Thanks again for listening! Bob
Bob, Sounds like you've most likely found the problems with your shuttle shift.
Like I said, I'm not familiar with the internals on the 203, just basic workings of a shuttle shift.
Those may have to be in a gear and range before the shuttle will engage, I don't know,
An op's manual would tell you that, but you shouldn't have to turn the engine off, that I do know.
If you get a chance start a thread on your problems, what you found, and do to fix the problems.
With photos if possible. May help others with the same or a similar problem. ;)
 
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