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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up another one arm loader as part of a trade. Not as nice as my other one and this has trip bucket instead of Hyd. Kind of rough and need some fixing to the trip lever but it works. Will basically be just used for manure and will com in handy for loading the scrap wagon.

Kirk
 

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Kirk would a one arm loader be practical on a 9N? I'd like to be able to lift things up (bucket, hook, fork) for moving things like engines/atvs/dirt around the yard - you wouldn't have any detailed pics of the mounting or mechansim would you? (Or a link to said pics)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Practial, propably not. You would have to run the Hyd out of the test port than chain or lock down the 3pt arms. Never seen one on a 9N/2n. I don't think they came out until the 8n. So the mounting plate would be for that model (8N)and because it mounts under the steering box would not fit the 9n/2n. Even the 8n brackets are very, very hard to find and wouldn't be cheap if you found them. Jub/NAA brackets are also hard to find. You'll pay a few bucks more for the front row crop bracket but the hundred series brackets can be found.

Kirk
 

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Do you have a pic of the mounting? I'm thinking of building one - I've got a 12v hyd pump from a dumptruck cyl and I figured I'd use that (as I've already converted to 12v).

It's tantalizing how "easy" it appears it would be to hook up (compared to the junglegym trip loaders I typically see).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are some photos off one on an 8n. Sorry, I don't have any measurements for you. I wish I had them myself. Still looking.

Kirk






 

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correct. the 1 arms won't work on a 9n/2n due to the bar over the top of the head too.

i love them loaders.. must have over a half dozen of them...

that one don't look too bad either.

that 8n bracket kit is reare.

i lucke dup and found one for a naa.

i think the rarest is for the dexta.. etc.
 

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That's crazy how it uses the motor as a stressed member.

Soundguy, why would the bar across the motor not work on a 9? same flathead innit? Does it just go down to support the lower front bracket where it attaches to the front end cradle?

I see what you mean Kirk about the bracket on the steering box. I bet I could use a flange with longer bolts at the motor/trans housing.... Anyone got any pics of the left side of the tractor with the arm on? I'd like to see how those brackets attach to the arm.

What were these things rated for? Could they lift as much as a traditional twin arm?
 

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depending on the model.. lift to full height was between 1000 and 1300# and breakout force between 2500 and 3000#

as for the motor being a stressed member. you don't see any frame rails do ya? all the fords till you hit rowcrops used the engine and oil pan as frame parts.

the steering box on a 9n / 2n IS part of the trans cover. on an 8n it is a removeable box. that's going to be a real cleancher to overcome.

in the master parts manual for the 711/722 loader. ford made brackets for 8n+ no sup[port for 2n / 9n. there's a reason for that.

as for the head.. I'm wondering if the placement of that plate might interfere with the funny 9n tensioner that is bolted to the head for the small genny... etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
here are a couple of pages that show attaching to the tractor. Basically a hairpin up front and a rod thru the box and a bolt on the support strap.


one arm loaders out there and if you do find one they are easier to find and cheaper with no brackets. A lot of times the brackets went with the tractor when sold. I should point out that there is a long and short box and your brackets should be made for the box on the loader so the fit will be right. Your adjustment between the front mounting hole and the box pin mount with also have to be right for fit.
As with any loader you are going to need some sort of counter weight. They recommend additonal weight to the right side of the tractor at least on the row crop NF models.
Should be any interesting project. If I can be of any help please let me know.

Kirk
 

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9N pulley tensioner?? Is that why on my alternator conversion the belt gently rubs the distributer?

Ok, Kirk - thanks for those lit pics. That'll help me plan how/if I continue with it.

Soundguy - I'm looking at building a selectrol type output for the hydraulics (like what's been posted on the mods for an NAA setup where you can divert the flow from the cyl to a 3 port control stick) or possibly running an electric standalone pump out of a dumptruck that I've got lying around.

NOW, anyone got any frontal engine shots of the 9N with an alt where it doesn't hang out the hood (right side) and get banged by my tie rod when I'm digging off camber in the woods? (c'mon Kirk, you've been "DaMan" with pics so far)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A couple of options are to go with a Jap style nippon-denso Alternator. Rewire your old gen to 12 volt. Shorten the belt(if it don't hit the front dizzy or wires)Or I have even seen a chain bolt to the opposite axle side to stop the travel of the axle and keep the steering rod from hitting the alt., Although I don't recommend the last one. Sorry no photos.

Kirk
 

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I was thinking of bending the upper spindle arm so it just clears the radius rod bolt (there's about 1&1/2" between that and the tie rod threads) & getting the belt as short as possible, but the GM alt can only pivot in so far before it runs into the manifold. Soundguy's allusion to an idler pulley intrigued me 'cause I've never seen one (can't find any pics online either). I haven't looked at shows to see what a stock setup looks like and my 18th hand tractor is far from stock in its parts.
 

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don't bugger rig it please. ie.. don't bend the arm.

you have plenty of options availabel.

it's SUPER easy to hit tsc.. buy a pulley with bearing pilot.. and a couple bolts and some bolt set screw stops and make a add on belt tensioner pullen / idler pulley. I have one on my 2n. it keeps the alt high, tight and out of the steering arm.. and no blt rubbing on the distribuitor.

I'll add that many steering arm hitting problems are really worn front bolster and kingpin problems.



 

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Sound, when you mentioned a 9N tensioner I didn't want to re-invent the wheel. I like your stop collar setup, very neat.

My interference comes from off-camber digging in the woods/dirt piles with the slip scoop and the front end at it's narrowest setting. Speaking of worn front ends - is there a replaceble bearing for the front axle center where it rides on the pin? I shimmed that front beam with 1&3/8 washers to take the lateral slop out of it but there's still some pivoting if I lift the front end....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Bushing and pins for the front axle are available and if you have that much slop I would suggest replacing it before it eats into the axle hole and waddles it out egg shape. Always front end trouble with loader on the old N's. Bent radius rod a tell tale sign.

Kirk
 

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ditto what kirk said.

the pin abd pushing are available.. if the bushing is gone and the axle is egged.

put a copper pipe in to the hole then weld up around it. the front is cast steel and welds as easy as mild steel. not a bad weld like cast iron. the weld won;t stick to the copepr.

after wards.. dress as needed and press in pushing and go.

ps. don't put too many washers int here to take all the play out. it needs SOME.

now.. since you are set narrow. even if you do rebush the axle it may still rotate up plenty. if you don't like the idler setup i have. about your last option is to take a big hex nut and weld it to the axle or the bolster at the axle stop so that the axle cannot rotate that much in t he diretion of the alternator.. thus you are stopping the steeirng arm from hitting it.

both work..e tc.
 

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I like that pulley setup, I'm going to give it a shot and see what I can come up with.

As for the front end, I'll get a bushing and pin for the spare beam & cradle in the parts pile and fit er in then.

Thanks guys
 

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should be good.

even if the hole is a lil egged. it's easy to weld and grind to fit the bushing.

same withthe bolster.
 

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what's the difference between the pins and why are they $23 - $90? 2N3126D for a 42-53 and 2N3126E for the 39-42 (that's the expensive one). Is that the one that's twice as long and holds the hand crank better? My extended one was worn the worse of the two so I figure I'll weld it and re-turn it to spec.... Should I have the refinished weld at the bottom as it'll likely be harder than the original pin surface or rotate it up so the new bushing rides on the old material?
 
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