[JABO]

Hi,
A friend of mine here at work has this tractor on his Dad’s land. The barn was converted to a home and the tractor is sitting in the weeds and they do not know allot about this tractor. I was planning on going with him to his Dad’s land and see if I can get the tractor running and get it moved inside a building on the land.
The number that he can find are:
8N-B
260
Can anyone help me identify the model and year from the attached pictures, I know they are not much to work off of. Need to know more about this tractor to order some parts before I attempt to get it running. I do have some tractor knowledge, I currently have a 1947 Farmall M but can use any help that you can provide.

Jabo

 

[bertman]

2n 8n 9n ? ? ? ?

 

[Peacher79]

Here's some info about the evolution of the Ford 8N. You'll see where yours looks like it is a 1950 8NB.

1947 (8N) Serial numbers: 8N1 to 8N37907. Early models had a different style clutch pedal linkage consisting of a bolt which pushed on a lever to release the clutch. The radius rod front clevis resembled the 2N type, and the PTO engagement lever was mounted on a cast iron cover. The engine block was the same as the 2N block and did not yet have the "8N" cast into it on the left side behind the starter.
1948 Serial numbers: 8N37908 to 8N141369. Redesigned clutch linkage. Engine block has "8N" casting mark cast into it on the left side behind the starter.
1949 Serial numbers: 8N141370 to 8N245636. 1949 saw two major improvements. The steering box was changed at serial number 216989 to a Spicer type with tapered sector shafts for better backlash adjustment. There are set screw adjusters on both sides of the newer style steering box. At serial number 245261, nearly the end of 1949 production, an inner grease seal was added to the rear axle housing to help stop the common problem of gear oil leaking onto the brakes.
1950 Serial numbers: 8N245637 to 8N343592. From serial number 247571 the engine oil pump was redesigned to use larger gears to provide more volume. At serial number 252845 the gear lever with a small forged knob was changed to a threaded lever with a black plastic screw on knob. The TSX-33 carburetor that had been used for several years was changed at serial 260595 to the TSX241 model. The top link pin retainer was changed from a single hole to a 3 hole design. A new engine block was cast so the distributor could be relocated at serial number 263844. The engine now had a side mounted distributor with separate coil on the right side and the dynamo was moved to the left side of the engine. The "8N" casting mark on the left rear of the block was changed to "8N-B". The Ford script was embossed into the rear mudguards around serial number 270xxx. Dealer installed accessory lighting kits eliminated the headlight "wing" mounts and replaced them with round stamped steel mounts. At serial 276115 the carburetor was changed to the TSX-241A. The Proofmeter (tachometer and hourmeter) was added to the instrument panel at serial number 290271. At serial number 313112 the carburetor problems were solved by a change to the TSX-241B. From serial 337916 the engine oil filler/breather tube was modified to keep oil from splashing out.
1951 Serial numbers: 8N343593 to 8N442034. From serial number 403489 a dust shield was added to the inside of the distributor to help extend the life of the contact points. The engine block cylinder bores were enlarged and the sleeves were changed at serial number 433578 to a cast iron material with a .090" wall thickness (piston size remained the same). The "8N-B" casting mark on the left rear of the block was then changed to "8N-C" and the star on each end of the serial number was changed to a diamond. Because Ford stopped supplying the steel sleeves, many older engines were re-bored at overhaul time to use the new cast iron sleeves. The engine oil pan casting was strengthened to give it extra support to resist cracking from the strain of front loaders.
1952 Serial numbers: 8N442035 to 8N524076. From serial number 451959 the front tie rod ends were changed to have a longer stud and use a castle nut and cotter pin to keep them from working loose. The spindle arms were also changed to bend upward slightly to make clearance for the castle nut above the axle. At serial 452913 the oil filler hole for the steering box was put on the front of the upper column between the steering wheel and dash board. Sometime mid-year a change was made to the transmission housing on the left rear side to allow for a larger gear to lower the reverse gear ratio. The upper rear lift arms were reinforced with a more rectangular cross section shape for increased strength.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

I agree probably a late 1950 8N. Parts get switched out all the time on these old ford so we can only go off the photos you supplied. Getting the tractor running easily will depend on how long it's been sitting. Any other questions feel free to ask. Good luck with it.

Kirk

 

[soundguy]

yep.. if wanting to get it to run.. put some atf oil downt he cy;s and let it soak a bit.. then post us back in a few days

 

[JABO]

Thanks guys, appreciate the help.

 

[JABO]

One more quick question. Where would I find the serial number information on this type of tractor?
Jabo

 

[soundguy]

the engine sn is on a 1x4 flattened boss ont he left side rear of the engine block, above the starter, aft of the oil filter.. just below the head.

many engines get swapped.. so date the sn, then compair to axle date codes.. if they are within a few months or are in same year.. likely is a complete chassis.

 

[JABO]

Hi,

Sorry, but I need to bring this thread back to life again. I had planned on getting out to see my friend “Mike’s” tractor last year but that did not happen. Mike is not very mechanically inclined and cannot even open the hood or locate the serial pad. The tractor is located about 2 hours away from my home so when I do go there I want to be able to get as much done as I can in one visit. From the pictures and the previous messages you guys said you thought it was a 1950 8NB or 8N.

What is the difference between an 8NB and an 8N? Not sure which model this is or if it maters?

Does the hood open? Is it like on a Farmall M where it has 4 locks and then lifts off or is it hinged and lift up on one end, where are the hood latches?

Are there any on-line free manuals for this tractor that I can download to figure out the oil filter part number and oil capacity, carburetor, spark plugs, tune-up specifications, battery model (6 or 12 volt system), over all operation?

Mike said it has been sitting for at least 7 years so I do not know if the engine is locked or not. He did see some gas in the tank, so I plan to drain the gas tank, get some coolant in the radiator and get it running long enough to get it moved from the middle of the field to the house/barn. Once it is under some type of shelter I can do more work on it and remove the carb and rebuild it at home.

 

[soundguy]

you will likely need mor ethan 1 visit.

also.. some pics of areas that would have actually offered Identifying clues would have helped.

for instance. dash.. dash will tell you if it is a 9n/2n chassie vs 8n.

rear hubs will as well.

as I mentioned. 9n/2n/8n blocks all interchange to the trannies and bolsters.

all depends on where he saw that 8nb .

the hood comes off WITh the gas tank attached with 4 dash botls nad 2 dogleg bolts. however.. there is no need to remove it to do ignition work.

front mount dizzy have 4 wires.. and the dizzy comes off with 2 bolts.

side mount dizzy ar ehte normal looking ones and have 5 wires. you simply pop the bails open to work on the innards.

fromt he pics you posted. i'm going to say 8n but can't tell front mount or not.

at the end of the post will be my N service data list.

also.. i see she is on 6v.... and at 7ys. plan on the battery being toast.

i don't know of any free manuals online. most farm stores sell an FO-4 service manual.

i'm guessing you will have to tow it to the barn.

get some cheap atf -f or dex/merc 3. fill the cyls with it while waiting. it will help unstick the rings..e tc.





N fire order 1-2-4-3

Ford 9N, 2N, 8N Oil filters:

Ford Part Number: CPN 6371B 9N-18649, 9N-6714, 9N-2731
Fram C3, C3-P
NAPA Gold 1010
Motorcraft FL 144
Balidwin P40
Big A 92010
Bosch 72127
Carquest 85010
Fleetguard LF574
Wix 51010
Purolater L20110 or L20701
Fleetrite LFR-8574
Texaco HSO-100
Unocal OF 1010
White 10575
Hastings Mighty M3LF-130
Luber-Finer P3

Ford 9-2-8n Front mount distribuitor ignition service:

gap points to .015

Front Mount distributor...
Points:
NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA200
Standard Ignition #FD-71
Rotor:
NAPA #FA300
Standard Ignition #FD-104
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA350
Standard Ignition #FD-126

Side-Mount Distributor: 8n thru 4 cyl thousand series

gap points to .025

Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128

side mount points hold down screws #8-32 X 3/16
FORD AUTOMOBILE dealer parts counter. come with built-in lockwasher. p/n 355047-S7 (#8-32 X 0.19)

All 4 cyl models can use AL-437 or champion H12 spark plugs instead of OEM Champion H10 or AL 216 plugs. many places call a champion H12 a '512'

Soundguy

 

[JABO]

Thank You Soundguy,
I am trying to get some pictures of the dash ans wheels, I can not get them till this weekend. Can you tell me how many quarts of oil the engine holds?

Jabo

 

[soundguy]

5.5qts... rest of the 6th qt goes into the air cleaner cup.

ie.. buy 6 qts.. fill air cleaner cup to line.. rest goes in engine.

i would probably put a lil atf type f or dex/merc 3 in the engine as well.

 

[JABO]

Ok I received a few more pictures. Someone said if I had pics of the dash and wheels it would help to identify this model. Mike and his Dad (Bob) were at the farm this last weekend and said the engine must be stuck. They tried to jump the tractor off of the Ford truck with a 12 volt battery, they heard the solenoid clicking but the engine would not/could not turn over. I told him to try squirting some ATF into the cylinders.
One of the pics shows “D270”, I assume this is a Ford 8N with a cast date of April 27th 1950 ?

 

[soundguy]

appears to be a later 8n.

has the screw on gear shifter.. a proof meter.. a left side genny.. menaing a angle dizzy drive.

if they were jumping it in shuch a way that the solenoid was involved. it may or may not be stuck.

jumping it like that. IE.. jumping driectly to a dead battery rarely results in a starter turning, as the dead battery is a huge draw.

still might be stuck however...

 

[WyattB]

Jabo, some advice. Get your unhandy friend to take more pictures of the engine, especially the spark plug wires at the opposite end from the plugs and also check a few basic things. What does the oil on the engine dipstick look like and how high on the stick is it. It is bad if it is anything but black and it shouldn't be overfull, that would indicate the oil floating on water or coolant. There is probably a differential dipstick on the rear end, same check as the engine. Does the gearshift move. Have him try to put it in and out of gear. This will give an indication that the tranny shifter isn't seized. Put the shifter in neutral and then try to rock the engine using the fan blade. The fan belt may have to be pushed in to tension it enough to allow the fan blade to move the engine or hold firm if the engine is seized. I would go with a fully charged 6 volt battery, booster cables, a way to lift the loader manually ( cable comealong ) and a way to pull the tractor if only to get it to a better place to work on it. Remember if it is not seized and you want to bump start it do it in one of the higher gears.

 

[JABO]

Thanks Wyatt,
My unhandy friend said he is heading up there this weekend, I told him to buy a new battery and try engaging the starter. I am just getting him to do the basic trouble shooting before I make the 2 hour drive there and 2 hour drive back. If the engine is stuck I would like to get him to add ATF through the spark plug holes so they can soak. If the engine is stuck it’s kind of a waste of a trip for me.
I hate to say it, but it pisses me off when people neglect their stuff and then ask for help to try and bring it back to life. I have no problem helping people when they care about their stuff.

Jabo

 

[soundguy]

i had a friend that let a small ford diesel set and set up for years.. then he would ask eme to mow and disc for him. on 2nd trip over i spent the day getting his machine running...

 

[JABO]

My friend Mike is having an issue with the wiring on his N, the mice must have chewed on some wires. I would like to get mike to hotwire the coil to see if he can get the engine to pop or run with a short blast of either. Mike and his Dad have cleaned out the tank and replaced the fuel valve and added a few gallons of fresh gas.
Here is where I need the help, this is a 6 Volt Negative ground system. If I was going to do this on one of my old cars I would run a wire from the “+” side of the battery to the “+” side of the coil and then hit the starter. This is a negative ground system and where my brain is having issues. Do I have him run a wire from the “-“ side of the battery to the “+” side of the coil? I know this is really easy but the negative ground is throwing me off a little on this. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for this tractor?
I do appreciate the help from all of you on this, you guys have been a great help. On a side note, the engine is free and he has a new battery in this tractor. Mike wants to buy a new wiring harness, he just wants to get it to pop before spending more money.

Jabo (David)

 

[soundguy]

6v neg grnd?

it letf the factory 6v + grnd.

in any case. to hot wire. you would HAVE to use the un-grounded side of the battery. whichever post ain't tied to chassis goes to coil...

 

[JABO]

Soundguy,

Sorry, I meant to say Positive ground So if it is a positive ground, just run a wire from the negative side of the battery to the positive side of the coil, spray the carb with a short blast of starting fluid and hit the starter button?

Jabo