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PTO driven sawmill?

11295 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  missouri massey man
Anyone know where I can get plans to build one for my John Deere? I know how to build the ways that the carriage would ride on. I just need to know how the carriage gets its power to move the log. Also how the ratchet mechanism is set up to feed the log to the saw.

Blueprint is what I really need. Not a description if possible.
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The track and carraige frame would be the easy part. For the rest it would near impossible to build yourself. I suggest contacting these people: they will likely be able to give you some info!
I was planning more on something like this.

What I need are the ratios for the carriage return. Yet I suppose I could just use a hydraulic motor underneath in stead of the gearing.
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There really isn't any "gearing" so to speak as the cab assembly will drive the carriage assembly through the blade via flat belt drives. Speed of the carriage will be sped up or slowed down by how much pressure is applied to the forward/reverser. The flat belts allow the carriage to literally creep through the blade with a large log or speed quite quickly through a smaller log.

I would be glad to take some detailed pics of a couple of mills I have here showing how different they can be. One is a FoleyBelsaw with a pto drive and a 50" blade and the other is a home made mill, pieced together with a drive mechanism that is quite unique. As a matter of fact there is a post titled 40' sawmill on a 20' trailer in the machinery forum you may be able to get some ideas from. Let me know if you'd like some pictures. By the way, I've traded for another mill and have to pick it up sometime this winter. I'll take a ton of photos too.

I think your biggest issue will be in the carriage indexing mechanics. It will have to draw the log forward across the carriage to line up with the blade, but will also have to be able to be ratcheted back to the other side again. A reliable way to " dog " the logs to the carriage could be a bit of a problem too, but with a little ingenuity done well.
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It turns out from chatting on another forum that I realized I probably should look for a used one instead of scratch built. The parts would be cheaper in the long run.

I thank everyone for your support and ideas. I welcome other ideas as well.
That was going to be my suggestion also as around here a working mill can usually be bought for $500 or less. Most times just an inserted tooth 50" to 60" blade will bring $350 alone.
The last one I traded a disassembled 8n even for one. And the 8n I'd bought in boxes for $300.
Good luck, sir. And don't forget to document with pictures and to post 'em.
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