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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The picture I took did not turn out so I drew a picture of the cracks I have. Do I just try some sealant to fix these cracks? We have some good welders in our area -a couple of them told me they could weld cast iron. How much work is involved in pulling the head?
 

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-Willy-
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If it is like my 60 (and it probably isnt)
-drain antifreeze
-shut off the gas
-remove exhaust pipe from the manifold
-remove duct work to carb
-remove the carb / manifold from head
-remove tool box from the frame
-remove valve cover (careful with the gasket)
-remove oil lines to rocker arms
-unbolt rocker arms and gently set them aside
-get a piece of foam insulation and drill 1/4" holes and number one through four
-place each of the lifting rods for the valve lifters in the holes in sequence as you take them out (hopefully you place them back the same way)
-unbolt head bolts (the washers if original under the nuts are lead)
-If your lucky you can slip the head off now.

Go over to NAPA and get a replacement head gasket kit from FelPro. (I will find my post and get the part #, it fits 90% of the boxer engines).
When the head is off, check the head surface for warping, mine was out by 4 thousandths ($50 to true it up). Also it wouldnt hurt to give it a valve reseating. Preventive maintenance in my book.
 

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-Willy-
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How bad is the leak? If you only have a couple of drips...............

I used an epoxy paint from interlux to seal my block to stop dripping. My block dripped once every 20 seconds.
 

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i don't put much faith in cracked block sealers.


I'd either pull the head to have it welded,, or hardsoldered/brazed.

braze is way easy.. and no crack problems like welding.

that said. i've hobby welded plenty of castings with no cracks. preheat. slow cool.. and peening help a bunch....
 

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if it was me i'd just replace the head. theres enuff A's out there for parts so a different head wont be hard to find. im not a big fan of sealers or welding on blocks or heads unless that's the only option
 

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-Willy-
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Where you have never torn your engine down, and reassembled it. It will take you the better part of a day to do the whole job. You dont have to keep your valve rods in sequence, if you dont, you will just have to readjust your valve tappets.

On a scale of difficulty 1 being easy to 10 being difficult, I would rate this job as a 3. It isnt hard at all. If you havent taken apart a engine before there are some simple rules. If your really concerned? If you have a digital camera, take pictures as you take each item off, then review your pictures on how to put it back together in reverse order. The first part off should be the last part on. As you take apart a section, put those parts in a separate box. Then as you reassemble, just do it per box till your done. The new gasket set will have a torque sequence on what bolts to tighten in a specific series. These engines are not that hard to deal with. The head is the heaviest and weighs about 40 pounds. If you have ever taken apart a lawn mower engine, it is basically the same with MUCH larger parts. If you were to ask a auto shop to do the tear down and rebuild they may saok you for as much as one thousand dollars (it may be cheaper, mind you I am only guessing).

The valve job is not necessary, yet it would be real easy for a machine shop that checks the head for warping to pop the valves apart and resurface them. Yes brazing would be better, yet I would get it tig brazed if I were to chose. The tig flame wont require the setup that a traditional braze does.

A replacement head will cost almost $500 for a new one (with out the valves) #JDS1020 from http://www.Steinertractors.com
http://www.steinertractor.com/JDS1020-c ... mageDialog (the image of the cylinder head) image too large to repost.

If you belong to a tractor club, you might ask if anyone in your area will give you a hand.
 

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-Willy-
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I thought I would mention this since you asked about sealant.

Sealant in the cooling system wont work with atmospheric pressure systems. Todays sealant needs a pressurized system to push the sealant into the cracks. Otherwise you will go over a bump and the sealant will dislodge and start weeping again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Lovesthedrive said:
If it is like my 60 (and it probably isnt)
-drain antifreeze - Done for me by the crack
-shut off the gas - Done
-remove exhaust pipe from the manifold - Done
-remove duct work to carb - Done
-remove the carb / manifold from head - Done
-remove tool box from the frame - Done
-remove valve cover (careful with the gasket) - Done
-remove oil lines to rocker arms - Where are these?
-unbolt rocker arms and gently set them aside
-get a piece of foam insulation and drill 1/4" holes and number one through four
-place each of the lifting rods for the valve lifters in the holes in sequence as you take them out (hopefully you place them back the same way)
-unbolt head bolts (the washers if original under the nuts are lead)
-If your lucky you can slip the head off now.

Go over to NAPA and get a replacement head gasket kit from FelPro. (I will find my post and get the part #, it fits 90% of the boxer engines).
When the head is off, check the head surface for warping, mine was out by 4 thousandths ($50 to true it up). Also it wouldnt hurt to give it a valve reseating. Preventive maintenance in my book.
 

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-Willy-
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1,420 Posts
The oil lines on my 60 are attached to one of the cylinder head nuts. The oil passage runs outside of the stud, there is a big nut of sorts that fits over the hole and has small tubes that distribute the oil to the rocker arms.

As I said in the first line. "If it is like my 60 (and it probably isnt) "
 
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