Joined
·
3,020 Posts
Anyone still use these kinda torches ??
Here's a selection of irons. Can't have too big of a selection, you know....Remember the salimoniac block for cleaning and tinning the irons ??
Salimoniac block in use...
Soldering Irons and Torches
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Anyone still use these kinda torches ??
Here's a selection of irons. Can't have too big of a selection, you know....Remember the salimoniac block for cleaning and tinning the irons ??
Salimoniac block in use...
Joined
·
3,020 Posts
I'd remembered your post of those HUGE radiators....I figured you'd be at least one guy to use 'em for sure, Bert.bertman said:Use the irons once in a while at work. We got natural gas torches to heat them up
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
Very nice collection of irons. I have some soldering to do on a stainless maple syrup pan (candy machine pig) today. Maybe I will take a few shots and post them here. My collection of irons is limited to about three, but they work good for small soldering projects. Glad a friend taught me some of the basics in using these irons. I have used these skills a lot in keeping syrup pans leak free, and building items in stainless steel.
Nice line up of torches that you have too! I don't have any of those. I use Mapp or oxy acet for heating the irons.
Regards,
Chris
Nice line up of torches that you have too! I don't have any of those. I use Mapp or oxy acet for heating the irons.
Regards,
Chris
Joined
·
3,020 Posts
Stainless steel requires special flux for the solder to flow smoothly, not the standard paste flux, sulfuric or muriatic acid. I just caught up to this thread, so am wondering how your repair turned out.Sugarmaker said:
Mapp and oxy acet works just fine for heating the tips, but excessive heat will de-generate the soldering iron much more rapidly than the soft, less intense heat of gasoline. But I have been known to do the same thing when necessary.
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
I whimped out and used a electric soldering iron with a similar big copper 4 sided tip to do the work on the stainless. I use a liquid flux Stay Clean brand, red and white plastic bottle. The difficult part on maple syrup equipment is that if its used, the joint is not clean inside where the sugar is trapped. Makes it very difficult to get the joint to resolder. I got it done and dlevered but it, took about three tries with water test in-between. I fill the contaier with watter and use compressed air to see if I find bubble/ leaks on the other side. Then drain and go back at it again.
Sorry no pictures I was lazy
Rgerads,
Chris
Sorry no pictures I was lazy
Rgerads,
Chris
Joined
·
3,020 Posts
They're not too bad, once you heat up the nozzle by burning the little sump full of gas the gas is literally vaporized as it passes through the needle valve. ( SAFETY NOTE : Do not open the needle until the sump is very near all burned out or you will have an 8' stream of burning gas shooting across your shop !!!) All you gotta do after the torch is heated is open the needle valve, then when the flame velocity (or intensity) goes down, pump up the pressure again with a few rapid strokes of the hand pump and you are back in business.soundguy said:nice irons.
them gasoline torches always kinda scared me..
The gas torches body itself never gets even warm. The cool thing with these is they heat the 4 sided irons very evenly, you just rotate the handle as it sits in the iron rest. Always use two at a time, that way while one is being used, the other is re heating and don't hesitate to re-tin the iron repeatedly while cleaning with the salimoniac block.
If you take your time, you can really do a good job and you can stack beads with practice. But if it ain't showing, I just blob it on and smooth it out and go with it.
I'm sure you guys knew how they worked, I don't know why I explained it....
If you are unsure, use it a few times OUTSIDE and pointed AWAY from your shed.
Joined
·
3,020 Posts
Glad your fix went well. I bet if you tried the same repair only using the stainless flux and a solder called Staybrite 8, you'd find it a much easier repair. The Stay Clean in the red/white bottle is a diluted muriatic acid flux, if I'm remembering correctly isn't it ? Good for galvanized metal. Swimming pool strength muriatic does even better on galvanized. Sorry, just rambling.....Glad you got it done.Sugarmaker said:I whimped out and used a electric soldering iron with a similar big copper 4 sided tip to do the work on the stainless. I use a liquid flux Stay Clean brand, red and white plastic bottle. The difficult part on maple syrup equipment is that if its used, the joint is not clean inside where the sugar is trapped. Makes it very difficult to get the joint to resolder. I got it done and dlevered but it, took about three tries with water test in-between. I fill the contaier with watter and use compressed air to see if I find bubble/ leaks on the other side. Then drain and go back at it again.
Sorry no pictures I was lazy
Rgerads,
Chris
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
Thanks for the tip on the Staybright 8 I will look for that flux. May work better than stay clean? I was taught with stay clean on stainless, haven't tried any thing else. I welded and soldered on my stainless 3' x 5' syrup pan partitions and the tubes and side panels in my homemade stainless steam away.
Regards,
Chris
Regards,
Chris
Joined
·
3,020 Posts
Might be able to do a Google search on stainless steel flux. I'll try to remember to dig out my partial bottle and get a product name for you. You will be amazed the first time you try it and it sounds like you'll use it frequently.Sugarmaker said:
Joined
·
2,990 Posts
Do you have a Hobby Lobby in your area? Pretty sure I saw stainless supplies in the one here.
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
I will keep that in mind. Who would have guessed
Regards,
Chris
Regards,
Chris
Joined
·
3,020 Posts
Doggone !!! I forgot again to dig out that bottle of SS flux. I'm going to have to send myself an alert text during the day to remember.....Stephenscity said:
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
