[redrider]

Well redid the exhaust seat in the 18 hp L shape twin and running like a top at least for a while, some how now the oil seal behind the flywheel is leaking enough that it will go through about a cup of oil everytime i run it, got to the point that it started collecting on the flywheel and gumming up with dirt causing problems with the coil so time to take it off and redo it. The problem is it wont budge used a puller and snapped off two 5/16 bolts got them out , then they just pulled out the treads in the flywheel so I drilled and went to a 3/8" same thing happened pulled out the threads in the flywheel, so I bypassed the 7/16" and went to 1/2" redrilled and re-tapped , have a lot of tension on it now put some heat to it sprayed it and tried just about everything I could think of to get it off but it wont budge.... It was off last fall and had problems then but after two days it finally came off.... any Ideas for some penetrating oil would Tanny fluid work or something that could be drawn into where it fits into the crankshaft???? I am at my wits ends with the briggs.... almost to the point of buying something else to power the mower.... perhaps a honda...

 

[bikerdave]

Try putting a fair amount of pressure on the flywheel and leaving it, with penetrating oil of course. Check it every day or so. With pressure on the wheel might help to rap sharply on the outside edge. Two things I have used in the past.
Oh by the way the crankshaft is tapered which is why it is so stuck.

 

[redrider]

I have the puller on it now has been for over a day every few hours I go out there and torque it some more with the impact. Don't want to over torque and bust something and also have been spraying with only WD 40 today bought some pb blaster and sprayed it good. I haven't rapped the outside of the flywheel only the end of the puller some and tapped around the flywheel some but not on the edges... so afraid I might wreck something..

 

[redrider]

Well finally gave up the conventional way so just decided to tear it down completely then put it on a press, something that I should have done from the get go. Either days of headaches waiting for it to pop loose with the puller or a few min. taking the heads, valves carb and pistons out..but within one min on the press and a little tap it popped off, the only thing that sucks is now i have to buy a new gasket kit :x which they never have on hand when you need one the most, uff-dah me....

 

[1031d]

Uff-dah? Ya hay! Sounds like my 10hp cast iron Briggs, mice used the flywheel and crank for a bathroom, been sitting loaded for 6 months without luck!

 

[redrider]

Well got it back together about a week ago should have bench tested it.. backfired and fried the starter (I knew I should have replaced that old starter while I had it apart) but tore it out of the lawn mower took all the tin off (grrrr) and replaced the starter with a new one by the way.. found out why it was only back firing sheared off the flywheel key didn't have the flywheel torque down enough.. This time took it out hooked up the gas and it fired right up and ran great. hooray put all the tin back on installed it took it for a short ride up the road and back ran perfect that is until i shut it off and five min. later went to start it wouldn't fire , no spark now what? Let it sit for a while tried to start it and it fired right up ran for about 10 mins then quit, oh boy must be the coil,, so here we go again tear it off and go through all the work of removing all the shrouds and shaft the runs the hydraulic drive motors and replace the coil.. whats the odds of all this stuff happening to me I thought. Turned it over great spark again yes back in business, so put it all back together and runs great again... Have about 6 hrs on it now seems to work like new again. The only little quirk is when it idles it burns too rich because it smokes a little, I am thinking this is the case so i think I will adjust and turn in the fuel screw just a little and see if this cures that problem...

 

[redrider]

One thing i did do different this time is since 3 out of 4 holes on the bottom of the sump were stripped out I re-drilled and installed some helicoils then ran bolts down instead of running bolts up and trying to find the hole in the engine from the underside, it is nice to have the stud bolts now so when I set the engine in place all I have to do is just put the washers and nuts on, so much easier..