tire loading and patching

loading

I just loaded the big 16.9-24 turf rears on my naa a few weeks ago.. was a breeze.
I choose rv holding tank antifreeze as napa had it on sale for 4.99/gal.. I put a few gallons in each tire, then added water. I used the 'burp' valve from napa.. it screws on to the tire valve and accepts a garden hose on the other side.. has a bleeder push button on it to burp air.
rotate valve stem up.. jack that wheel up.. remove tire valve core, slip a piece of fuel hose over the valve stem then add ballast. I save those gear oil quart bottle tops that have the pointy nose.. they screw right on many 1-g jugs, like the rv af jugs i bought.. then hang the jug, point down, hose on the nipple, and poke a hole inth bottom.. and wait for it to drain. once your ballast is in, then hookup the water hose and burp valve and start filling.. every few minutes, kink the hose and press the burp button to let air escape. Once you have water up to the stem level, disconnect valve, reinstall core, then air up tire to normal psi and go.
tire size, gallons of water, added weight of water
11.2-28 27 225
12.4-28 35 292

13.6-28 43 359
If adding cacl.. here's some info from the manual:
Manual specs: 113lbs of CaCl and 23-gal of H20 equates to 310lbs. That is 90% full
or you can use the general rule of thumb like 3.5lbs pper gallon slush free to -12 solid at -52, 5lbs per gallon slush free to -53 solid at -62
soundguy


patching

if the split is only thru the first layer of rubber it won't be a big deal.. if it's into the cord it will be a problem as it can rip out.

no eazy way to patch it .. though you could send it away to be sectioned.. but that's near as much money as the tire. what I have done, and seen done, especially on a split to the inside that won't be seen, is to break the tire down, use a 1/16 drill bit and drill a line of holes on either side of the split, and then use bailing wire and lace it up tight. don't laugh.. it works! I've seen tires BOLTED together.. ?

then put a big farm patch on the inside or a boot, to cover upt he metal lacing and keep it from pinching the tube. me? id put the patch on and then cut a boot out of an old tube a few inches past the repair on either side and slip that in over it as well. probably last another 10-20ys like that.

oh yeah.. forgot.. once you lace it up then you seal it up with black rtv in the crack and under the patch.. that keeps water from entering the repair.

soundguy